COUSCOUS : Steamer Class

The first and most important step in making any couscous dish is the steaming. Steaming couscous is not difficult, but it is necessary, no matter what the instructions on the package might say. The grains of a good couscous must be light, separate, tender and fluffy, and steaming is the only way to achieve these qualities.

I have tried various so-called “instant” brands, followed instructions and found the results indigestible if eaten in any quantity. Couscous can expand to many times its original size. One pound (2 1/2 cups) of processed couscous, “pre-cooked” at the factory, can expand with proper steaming to 12 cups. If you don’t steam it properly, beware: It will just go right on expanding in your stomach!

But to begin at the beginning . . .

Place the couscous in a fine sieve and set under cool running water until completely wet. Dump into a bowl and allow the pellets to swell for five minutes, then break up the lumps.

Fill the bottom part of a couscous pot with water or broth and bring the liquid to a boil. If you don’t own a couscoussiere, a deep kettle with a snug-fitting vegetable steamer or colander will do. If the latter doesn’t fit perfectly, use padding. Dampen a cheesecloth, twist it into a strip long enough to wrap completely around the kettle top, and tuck it between the two parts, to make sure the steam rises only through the perforated holes.

Lightly oil the inside of the steamer. But don’t line those holes with cheesecloth! The rising steam will prevent the grains, no matter how small, from falling through. Don’t let the perforated top touch the boiling liquid below either.

With the perforated container in place, pile the moistened couscous in it when the liquid below comes to a full boil. If directions call for covering, cover tightly, and steam 15 to 20 minutes.

Remove top half of couscous maker, place the couscous in a large, shallow pan and spread it out with a long fork. Sprinkle some salt and cold water (one cup per pound of couscous) over the grains. Separate and break up lumps by lifting and stirring gently. Oil your hands lightly and gently rework the grains. (Moroccans allow the couscous to dry at this point; Tunisians don’t.)

Pile the couscous back into the pot and continue steaming, covered if called for in the directions, until fully cooked, about 10 to 15 more minutes. (The color of the couscous becomes lighter.)

Dump the couscous into a wide serving dish. Fluff up with a fork and moisten with some of the prepared broth and garnish. Cover and allow the couscous to swell 10 more minutes before serving. You can completely assemble couscous in advance and reheat portions in the microwave, uncovered.

One last, but very important note: The stew in the bottom of the couscoussiere may be fully cooked before the couscous is ready. If so, transfer the stew to a separate saucepan, keep warm, and continue steaming the couscous over boiling water.