Heavy Metal

The baby finger finally gets its due.

Antique opals, Egyptian scarabs and simple ropes of silver are running circles around every last digit--and both thumbs. Many of the newest designs are meant to meet up with one’s existing jewelry for a group show. Others are strictly solo acts.

The Alicia Bleier Collection of jewelry is designed in Los Angeles by two women known collectively as Ilan-Oded. Their bands of sterling silver and gold, set with semiprecious (topaz, peridot) and precious (ruby, emerald) stones, feature filigree details from old Spanish and Middle Eastern cultures.

Sika, also of Los Angeles, makes sterling silver rings with fossilized stones and shells, but his biggest sellers showcase amber. “People go for the stones because they’re old and hold some special feeling of magic and spirit,” he says.

When he’s not surfing, Willie Thoms paints, sculpts and makes jewelry. The way to create is “to trip on shape,” says the L.A. designer. His “Tempered Chunk” pairs a square block of glass with a sterling silver setting.

San Francisco designer Jan Michaels finds inspiration in the past, particularly ancient Egypt. The top of her oversize pyramid ring unlatches to reveal a piece of faux mummy wrap, a.k.a. gauze.

Jack Lalor’s puzzle ring, on the other hand, is understated and sentimental. His Maine-based line, Circle Around the Moon, includes a wedding ring with interlocking parts. Inspired by designs from the 16th Century, Lalor says he likes the idea of providing a “‘private space” for secrets between lovers.