THE WINE LIST

A number of wine lovers, who are increasingly vocal, call themselves ABC-ers, the acronym standing for Anything but Chardonnay and/or Anything but Cabernet. These two are the top-selling white and red wines, respectively, in this country, but some folks are utterly bored with them.

Twin Palms has found a way out: To the perfunctory list of Chardonnays and Cabernets, it added a number of exciting wines that actually go with its food, priced low enough that even Robin Hood could afford them.

Among the best wines for the rich flavors of the food here are the two Rhone-style wines, Preston Vineyards’ 1992 Faux, $18, and a real Cotes-du-Rhone, 1989 Le Cave St. Pierre, $15.

Among the whites, the elegant 1990 Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris, $15, is a good choice, as is the floral 1992 Alderbrook Duet, a Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend, $18.

Other attractive offerings include 1992 Acacia Pinot Noir, $21; 1992 Domaine Drouhin, a stylish Oregon Pinot Noir, $40; 1991 Gundlach-Bundschu Bearitage, $18, and, though ABC-ers may demur, 1989 Chateau St. Jean Cabernet, $23.