When traditional costs too much, odd is your escape.

That applies especially to the wine list at 72 Market St., which has always been relatively eclectic and continues to offer the adventuresome diner an exciting experience. But you have to know how to order, and that means a bit of boning up.

For instance, if you stick with tried-and-true Chardonnay as your white, only two or three wines are decent values. But the 1992 Chablis Premier Cru "Vaillons" from Robert Vocoret, $30, is an excellent buy and a fine wine.

Among the best buys, try 1993 Murphy-Goode Fume Blanc, $19, 1992 Joseph Phelps Grenache Rose, $18, 1991 Frog's Leap Zinfandel, $21, or the excellent 1988 Coltassala from Castello di Volpaia, one of my favorite Tuscan producers, $25.

The list also has a wide selection of older red wines (some well priced, a few far too expensive), more than a dozen fine beers, 10 tequilas, six bourbons, 19 Cognacs and Armagnacs, 11 single-malt Scotch whiskeys, an array of grappas and some other dessert wines.

Its failings: a skimpy sparkling wine list, and only three Pinot Noirs.

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