<i> La Cuisine du Can</i>

When you say tuna , you might mean a grill-marked fillet streaked with squiggles of cilantro-lime-jalapeno puree; when you say tuna fish , though, you mean canned tuna. In “The Tuna Fish Gourmet” (Villard Books), Tracy Seaman means to elevate this universal American ingredient with 75 novel tuna fish recipes. They include tuna tabbouleh and curried tuna with wild rice, but as if to prove the solid worth of our traditions, nearly half the recipes are for salads or sandwiches. Weirdest: tuna and marmalade on toast (“for marmalade lovers only,” Seaman observes).

Flipper? Is That You?

Buckeye Beans, creator of the now well-known Baseball Pasta, also makes Playful Dolphin Pasta, shaped like a leaping dolphin: (800) 449-2121, Dept. 6700. Of course, the politically incorrect could serve Dolphin Pasta with the tuna tetrazzini sauce from “The Tuna Fish Gourmet” (We hasten to add that neither Buckeye Beans nor Tracy Seaman has suggested this.)

D Day Dishes

Ah, the cooking of World War II, when money was tight and meat, eggs and sugar were rationed. You just had to be there. You can recreate the era, though, with the 10 recipes in a pamphlet-style cookbook titled “Served With Love,” released to coincide with the 50th anniversary of D Day, June 6. Samples: a strudel that raised money for Gateway Hospital in Los Angeles (and didn’t use eggs or sugar); a Kool-Aid pie. The recipes, together with memories and comments, were volunteered by residents of an Orange County retirement community, and the $3 price goes to nonprofit organizations. Available from Palm Terrace Retirement and Health Care Community in Laguna Hills, 24962 Calle Aragon, Laguna Hills.

I’m a Vegetarian, I Don’t Eat Horse Gram

Last October the Kyolic company, long known for its garlic-extract capsules, introduced an enzyme product for breaking down the indigestible sugars in beans which cause gas. Be Sure works like Beano (you take it with your first bite of the gassy food), but it’s in capsule form, which some people may find more convenient. Blister packs of Be Sure are available at drug stores and supermarkets; if you can’t find it, call the Gas Busters hotline for a free sample: (800) 688-3933. OK, Be Sure showed up in October. What just brought it to our attention was a list of gassy health foods it works with, including adzuki, lupins and horse gram.

Big Crawdaddy

Crayfish are found on every continent except Africa and (surprise!) Antarctica. But there are crayfish in Tasmania, which isn’t so darn far from Antarctica, and they can weigh up to eight pounds apiece.