Couscous: Salad State

Most of us can recall a budget food that sustained us during our penurious student days. For me, that food was couscous. I was studying in Paris, but the glories of French gastronomy were beyond my modest budget. I nourished my body and soul at that city’s numerous Tunisian and Algerian restaurants, where a small sum would purchase mountains of this North African staple.

Couscous is often, but incorrectly, described as a grain. Actually, it’s a type of pasta made from a dough that contains durum wheat (semolina) and water. Instead of being rolled out or extruded to form noodles, the dough is rubbed through a sieve to make tiny pellets. Moroccan cooking expert Paula Wolfert believes the word “couscous” is onomatopaeic for the sound of the pellets hitting the water.

But couscous also refers to a North African style of eating. The couscous (the pasta) arrives in a steaming mound on a platter. A spicy stew is ladled over the couscous, followed by a spoonful of harissa (fiery hot sauce). Often, for extra flavor, the couscous is steamed right over the stew. Like pasta, couscous can accommodate an almost endless variety of toppings and sauces. Its versatility has endeared it not only to North African cooks but to American chefs as well.

Couscous is a staple throughout North Africa where, according to Wolfert, it has been eaten since Roman times. Moroccan couscous is the mildest, lightest and fluffiest, while Algerian couscous is firm and dense. Couscous also turns up in Sicily, where it is served with seafood, and in Tunisia, where one version calls for pomegranates and orange flower water and is served as a dessert.

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The traditional method of cooking couscous is to sprinkle it with milk and water, air-dry it (raking it with your fingers as it dries), then cook it in a steamer. The procedure is repeated three or four times; in the process, the individual couscous grains swell to seven or eight times their original size. This, the traditional Moroccan method, produces couscous of uncommon and ethereal lightness. For a complete account of this method, see Wolfert’s book, “Couscous and Other Foods From Morocco.”

Algerian restaurants in Paris use a slightly different method: The grains are rubbed with oil, rinsed with water and steamed only twice, with liberal buttering between steamings. The resulting couscous is harder and more compact; you can taste each individual grain when you take a bite.

These days, most of the couscous sold in the United States is quick-cooking couscous. To prepare couscous, saute 1/2 cup chopped onion and a few tablespoons each of pine nuts and currants in 1 tablespoon of butter or olive oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat until tender, but not brown. Stir in one cup of couscous and toast for one minute. Add 1 1/2 cups or chicken or vegetable stock or water and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat, tightly covered, and let the couscous stand five minutes. Just before serving, fluff the couscous with a fork. For extra richness, add one tablespoon of butter before fluffing. This quick-cooking process produces a slightly heavier couscous than the traditional North African methods, but you can’t beat the convenience.

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It used to be that couscous could be found only in Middle Eastern markets. Today, it’s sold boxed in virtually all natural food stores and gourmet shops, and even in the grain section of most supermarkets. Here is a recipe for enjoying this healthful grain-like pasta.

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This dish makes a great salad for picnics. (Unlike green salads, it won’t wilt . ) The flavorings are characteristic of Morocco, but the salad is purely American.

COUSCOUS SALAD WITH NORTH AFRICAN SEASONINGS

2 tablespoons butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

1/2 cup currants or raisins

1 1/2 cups couscous

2 1/4 cups water or chicken or vegetable stock

1 sweet red pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 sweet yellow pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 tomato, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice

4 green onions, finely chopped

1/2 cup cooked garbanzo beans

1 clove garlic, minced

1 to 2 jalapeno chiles or other fresh chiles, seeded and minced

2 teaspoons minced ginger root

1/4 cup chopped cilantro or flat-leaf parsley

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Melt butter in heavy saucepan. Add onion and currants and cook over medium heat until onions are tender but not brown, 3 minutes. Add couscous and cook until lightly toasted, 1 minute. Stir in water and bring couscous to boil. Remove pan from heat, cover tightly and let couscous stand 5 minutes. Fluff couscous with fork, then let cool completely. Fluff again.

Place couscous in mixing bowl and add peppers, tomato, green onions, garbanzo beans, garlic, jalapenos, ginger root, cilantro, mint, oil, lemon juice, cumin, coriander and turmeric. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss until thoroughly mixed. Adjust seasonings to taste, adding salt, lemon juice or cumin as necessary. Salad should be highly seasoned. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

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