Yom Kippur : Dinner Is Done When the Sun Goes Down

Yom Kippur, the Jewish day of atonement, is marked by serious fasting--no food or drink from sundown to sundown. During this time, the thoughts of many Jews inevitably turn to what they want to eat to break the fast.

Recently, when I interviewed friends on the subject of Yom Kippur foods, many declared their favorite after-fast meal was deli food. Some dishes were homemade and could be prepared days in advance; others could be picked up fresh at the local deli.

Today’s take-out delis offer something for everybody . . . not just old standbys such as pastrami and blintzes, but a wonderful array of salads, smoked fish, cold meats, roasted chicken and pasta.

My menu is based on family favorites that can be prepared in advance, so that we can attend synagogue services all day.

In the morning, a buffet table is made ready with plates, cutlery and an assortment of bowls and platters.

When hungry guests arrive in the evening, they are met with welcoming cups of hot shiitake mushroom and barley soup. This is accompanied by a round, raisin-filled challah, a Yom Kippur tradition available at most Jewish delis or bakeries.

Several homemade salads, a cheese platter, pickles, olives and other deli selections will fill the table.

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Desserts are my specialty, so I plan to do my own baking, which includes rugelach and Aunt Betty’s chocolate spice cake. If you are pressed for time, your local deli bakery will have an array of desserts to choose from. Serve these sweets on a separate table with a variety of teas and coffee.

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The technique of sauteing all the ingredients before adding the stock brings out the intense mushroom flavor of this robust soup.

SHITAKE MUSHROOM AND BARLEY SOUP

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, diced

2 stalks celery, diced

2 carrots, diced

3/4 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, minced

6 cups vegetable stock

2 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons pearl barley

2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme

1 tablespoon dry Sherry

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

In large heavy pot, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add onion, celery and carrots, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 10 minutes. Add mushrooms and garlic. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Add vegetable stock, soy sauce, barley, thyme and Sherry. Reduce heat to low, cover partially, and simmer 45 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into heated soup bowl. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Each of 4 servings contains about:

497 calories; 696 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 104 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 13.21 grams fiber.

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Cauliflower’s taste and color are subdued, so the zippy flavor of this salad’s anchovy dressing gives the understated vegetable a dynamic flavor boost.

CAULIFLOWER- ANCHOVY SALAD

1 head cauliflower, rinsed and separated into florets

Parsley-Anchovy Dressing

Using vegetable rack, steam cauliflower in large saucepan until tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer to large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Chill at least 30 minutes.

Spoon just enough Parsley-Anchovy Dressing over cauliflower to moisten. Toss. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

428 calories; 549 mg sodium; 12 mg cholesterol; 42 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 1.35 grams fiber.

Parsley-Anchovy Dressing

1/4 small onion, diced

1 (2-ounce) can anchovy fillets, drained

3/4 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 cups tightly packed parsley sprigs, stems removed

Freshly ground pepper

In blender or food processor fitted with metal blade blend onion, anchovies, olive oil and vinegar. Add parsley little at time. Puree until dressing is bright-green color. Season to taste with pepper.

Transfer to glass bowl, cover with plastic wrap and chill. If dressing thickens after chilling, add additional olive oil. Mix well. Will keep several days in refrigerator. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

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A delectable variation on a Danish favorite, this salad blends the flavors of herring, potatoes, apples and beets, creating a lovely rose hue.

SCANDINAVIAN HERRING-POTATO SALAD

2 large beets

4 large potatoes

2 cups pickled herring, drained and cubed

2 medium red apples, unpeeled, cored and thinly sliced

1/2 cup thinly sliced onion

1/3 cup Mustard Mayonnaise

In separate saucepans boil beets and potatoes in water until tender. Drain, peel and cut into 1/2-inch cubes.

In large bowl combine beets, potatoes, herring, apples and onion. Toss with just enough Mustard Mayonnaise to moisten. Chill. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

167 calories; 273 mg sodium; 5 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.73 gram fiber.

Mustard Mayonnaise

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons dry mustard

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

In small bowl blend together mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Cover with plastic wrap and chill. Will keep several days in refrigerator. Makes about 3/4 cup.

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This is a special recipe from my aunt, who was a fabulous baker. It’s truly classic, old-fashioned comfort food.

AUNT BETTY’S CHOCOLATE SPICE CAKE

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, at room temperature

1 1/2 cups sugar

4 eggs, separated

1 3/4 cups sifted cake flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup milk

1/4 pound unsweetened chocolate, melted

1 cup toasted chopped walnuts

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup finely ground walnuts

In bowl of electric mixer beat remaining 3/4 cup butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy. Beat in egg yolks, 1 at time, until well blended.

In medium bowl sift flour, baking powder, cloves, cinnamon, allspice and salt. Spoon flour mixture into butter mixture alternately with milk until completely blended. Stir in melted chocolate, toasted walnuts and vanilla.

In clean bowl, using clean beaters, beat egg whites on high speed until stiff. Fold into batter.

Spread remaining butter in 10-inch bundt or fluted tube pan. Sprinkle bottom of pan with walnuts. Bake at 325 degrees until wood pick inserted into center comes out clean and cake begins to shrink away from sides of pan, about 50 minutes.

Cool cake in pan set on wire rack. Carefully loosen sides and center of cake from pan. Invert onto cake plate. Makes 1 (10-inch) cake, about 16 servings.

Each serving contains about:

340 calories; 117 mg sodium; 81 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.72 gram fiber.

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Rolled, filled rugelach is an old-fashioned European pastry that has found its way into most delis and patisseries.

BROADWAY DELI RUGELACH

1 1/2 cups unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for baking sheets

3/4 cup powdered sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 pound cream cheese, at room temperature

3 1/3 cups pastry flour, plus more for board

2 cups apricot jam

2 cups chopped toasted walnuts or pecans

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar mixed with 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water

In large bowl cream butter, sugar and vanilla. Add cream cheese and blend until smooth. Add flour all at once. Blend until mixture comes together. Cover bowl with towel. Refrigerate 2 hours.

Divide dough into 4 equal portions. Work with 1 portion at time, keeping other portions in refrigerator, covered with towel. On lightly floured board, roll out each portion into 16x13x1/8 inch rectangle. Spread with 1/2 cup of apricot jam and sprinkle with 1/2 cup walnuts and 1/4 cup cinnamon-sugar mixture. Roll dough up along long edge into log. Cover and refrigerate.

Line 2 baking sheets with foil and grease with butter. Brush top of each log with egg mixture. Sprinkle each with 1 tablespoon remaining cinnamon-sugar mixture. Cut logs into 1-inch slices. Place 1 inch apart on prepared baking sheets. Bake at 375 degrees until lightly browned, 20 to 30 minutes. Cool slices on wire racks. Makes about 5 dozen rugelach.

Each rugelach contains about:

154 calories; 20 mg sodium; 22 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.37 gram fiber.