Papashon’s Fusion Cuisine Worth a Detour in Pasadena

Colorado Boulevard in Old Town Pasadena sometimes feels as if a director had assembled hundreds of extras and told them to stroll down the street, peering into shop windows, cafes and restaurants. “Make it look natural,” she adds. “And action.”

The actors walk, linger, move on, but never wander off Colorado. It’s not in the script. Too bad, because just around the corner is Pasadena’s serious restaurant row, where Papashon has just joined longtime residents Yujean Kang and Xiomara. Ramon Papa’s savvy new restaurant on North Raymond Avenue explores eclectic culinary territory.

Fusion cuisine is the buzzword in restaurant circles and it’s fusion galore on Sean Sheridan’s quirky, appealing menu. He’s got elements of Chinese, Indian, Japanese and Thai cuisines meeting the Mediterranean head on. It’s hard to know how to take names like “Bifteck Classic With Pomme Frit” or “Pasadena Kam Pao Shrimp and Ravioli” or “Crispy Fish Toast With Persimmon Dipping Sauce.” Are these typos or is the chef pulling a Fred Eric, playing at whimsical titles the way Vida’s chef does?

The comfortable room is relentlessly up to date. (The old Tra Fiori has been completely remodeled.) The service is swell, the desserts hard-to-resist. I’d say it’s definitely worth walking around the corner to check it out.

* Papashon Restaurant, 91 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena. (818) 792-6060. Open for dinner daily; for lunch Monday through Friday starting next week. All major credit cards accepted. Valet parking. Appetizers $5.50-$9; entrees $14-$19.