Grandma Hits: The Sauce

When I was growing up, my family often spent part of the holidays at my grandmother’s in a little town in southern Mississippi, just north of New Orleans. My grandmother, who was a celebrated cook, loved to entertain and especially liked to plan Christmas menus. Her golden roasted turkey served with sage corn bread dressing, her glazed sweet potatoes and her incredibly dense fruitcakes and made-from-scratch coconut cakes were among the delicious dishes set at her table.

My fondest memory, however, is of her cranberry sauce, which she festively served in scooped-out orange halves. Deep-crimson in color and scented intensely with the flavor of orange, it was a family favorite.

Like many of her generation, my grandmother never cooked from recipes, so she did not leave behind any written record of her special cranberry sauce. Several years ago I decided to try to reproduce this irresistible condiment and created a close facsimile. My version is made by simmering cranberries in sugar and water along with orange juice and grated orange zest. After the sauce has thickened, I stir in slivered almonds.

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I too serve this side dish in hollowed-out orange halves, but it could also be placed in a clear glass bowl and placed on a plate lined with dark-green, shiny lemon leaves. The sauce, which can be completely prepared three days ahead, makes a fine accompaniment to all roasted poultry and is equally good with roast pork or sauteed pork chops.

ORANGE-ALMOND CRANBERRY SAUCE 1 pound cranberries, picked over, rinsed and drained, to equal about 4 1/2 cups 2 cups sugar 1/2 cup water 2 teaspoons grated orange zest 1/2 cup orange juice 1/2 cup slivered almonds 6 oranges, halved and flesh scooped out, optional

Combine 1/2 pound cranberries, sugar, water, orange zest and orange juice in heavy, medium saucepan set over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar has dissolved and cranberries start to pop, about 5 minutes. Add remaining cranberries. Cook and stir 5 minutes more.

Remove sauce from heat and cool 30 minutes. Stir in almonds. Cover and refrigerate up to 3 days. To serve, mound sauce in orange halves or place in serving bowl. Serve chilled. Makes about 4 cups.

Note : 1 (12-ounce) package of cranberries is about 3 1/3 cups.