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Concerto Takes Its Coffee With Subtle Spirituality

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<i> Blanqui A. La Bounty is a free-lance writer who contributes occasionally to The Times Orange County Edition. </i>

When Julian Nafal opened Cafe Concerto on 17th Street in Costa Mesa two years ago, he envisioned running a simple little coffeehouse. But a fast-growing clientele embracing the Christian musical acts he regularly showcased forced him two months ago to move to a larger space across town.

The new place, near Newport’s Back Bay, fits up to 200 coffee sippers and music fans. Despite the added room and ornate, Greco-Roman-style pillars supporting arched ceiling beams, it has kept its intimate feel. Photographer Spencer Burge’s gentle, dreamlike images--such as a mother and child peeking through a window or hazy, serene faces arranged in abstract collages--decorate the dining area walls.

Throughout, the warm glow of candlelight illuminates two-toned tan brick walls, plush carpeting and blond wood furniture. Most tables seat four comfortably, with a clear view of the stage from both the dining room and coffee bar.

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It’s on this wide stage that Cafe Concerto has made its reputation, as well as the reputation of artists who perform on it every weekend. Local fledgling acts offer everything from alternative rock to folk stylings--all with a Christian message--in addition to appearances by recording artists such as Chris Lizotte, Andrae Crouch, Jon Gibson and Leon Patillo. A state-of-the art sound system and the practice of dimming houselights as performers take the stage gives the cafe a nightclub-like feel.

Though Cafe Concerto takes a spiritual approach to its entertainment and has become a hub for young Christians, the emphasis is subtle. There are no posted signs of religious propaganda or symbols of a particular faith. Patrons of all faiths enjoy the open camaraderie. It has also become a regular hangout for Alcoholics Anonymous 12-steppers (who include faith in their program) seeking an alternative to the party scene.

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Besides the live music on weekends, Nafal has designated Mondays as singles nights (no special promotion, just a night to meet); gospel brunch Sundays, with a full gospel choir, will be added in the coming months.

The new Cafe Concerto has an expanded menu that includes a sourdough burger ($6.75) and spicy Thai pot stickers ($5.50). Dinner is served nightly from 5 to 10 p.m.; a limited lunch menu is served weekdays.

Java, of course, is still why many come here. There are more than 24 gourmet coffees, plus specialty drinks, juices and the usual array of trendy bottled waters.

* CAFE CONCERTO

* 2675 Irvine Ave., Suites A and E, Costa Mesa.

* (714) 642-8450.

* Coffee bar open daily, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. The kitchen is open for lunch weekdays, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and for dinner nightly, 5 to 10.

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* No cover, except for special events.

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