Table for One

Solo cooks have the best of all possible culinary worlds. They cook whatever they please, whenever they feel like eating. And, there are only a few dishes to wash afterward.

Food costs are minimal, and marketing’s a breeze--no overladen carts to push, no squadron of bursting grocery bags to tote and unload. Most of the time, singles shoot through the express line. If their cart is stuffed, they’re probably giving a party.

Single cooks aren’t necessarily single, though. Travel or a work schedule may split up a couple temporarily. And singlehood is transitory. One leaves it, then re-enters when a relationship breaks up, the children leave home, or a roommate moves out. A single cook can be any age, from a recent high school graduate to a 90-year-old widower.

Long ago, when big roasts and heaps of potatoes were in fashion for Sunday dinner, the lone cook didn’t have a chance. Today, food marketing, cooking methods, eating patterns and appliances have changed considerably, to the benefit of singles.

Supermarket salad bars and deli take-outs provide accompaniments sold by weight. Meat counters offer steaks and chops packaged for one or two servings. Pasta, ideal for quick meals, occupies lots of store shelf space. Pasta sauces and salad dressings come in mind-boggling variety, and they store well. Rolls sold in bulk allow one to buy a single hamburger bun rather than a package of eight. Herbs and spices are packed in small jars as well as larger sizes. Supermarkets in Latino shopping areas may sell dried beans, rice, chiles and even cinnamon sticks in bulk so one can buy just what is needed and not have to store any excess.

Ethnic markets offer excellent buys. Some Asian markets sell duck legs and chicken parts in bulk, allowing one to buy a single leg or a couple of thighs. Chinese butchers cut pork to order so one can buy a small chunk rather than a large roast. In one such market I found lamb, cut in thin slices like sukiyaki meat. A few slices stir-fried in olive oil with garlic and fresh rosemary made a wonderful, quick dish to serve with a microwaved potato and steamed asparagus.

Contemporary cooking methods such as range-top grilling, stir-frying and microwaving are perfect for small quantities of food. The smaller the portion cooked in a microwave, the shorter the cooking time. A single medium potato “bakes” in only six minutes, four Brussels sprouts in four minutes. Ridged range-top grills are small and easier to work with than an oven-broiler. They’re ideal for single steaks, chops and sausages. To retain the high heat of a wok, food must be cooked in small batches, making it preferable to stir-fry for one or two rather than for a dinner party.

*

That’s not to say single people always cook for one. Life without leftovers would be, well, more difficult than it needs to be. A stew can be great for a couple of nights and freezes well for quick dinners later. A roast chicken could be eaten hot one night, cold another and in salad a third time.

Nor must lone cooks buy only minimal quantities of food. Supermarket meat bargains are simply too good to pass up. A two-pound hunk of London broil bought on sale can be cut into individual steaks. These can be wrapped separately, bundled together and frozen. It takes only a few minutes to thaw one steak in a microwave and five to seven minutes to cook it on a range-top grill. Chicken thighs and legs, also frequently on sale, are perfect for single cooks. Divide them into dinner-sized portions and freeze.

Buying eggs by the half dozen may seem practical, but a dozen on sale can be cheaper, and a good buy if you have a repertoire of puddings and frittatas. A microwave scrambled egg is one solution when there’s no incentive to get out a pan. Break the egg into a one-cup measure (easier to clean than a skillet). Add two teaspoons water, a dash of salt and a sprinkle of dried tarragon. Beat well with a fork. Microwave on medium, uncovered, 1 minute and 20 to 30 seconds, stopping occasionally to beat the egg as it rises and starts to solidify. When the egg is no longer liquid, it is ready to eat.

Vegetables that keep in the refrigerator for a week (or even longer, if you forget about them) include carrots, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and artichokes. A medium artichoke cooks in about 10 minutes in the microwave.

Spinach may seem fragile, but keeps well in a crisper. Use half the bunch for spinach salads--it will make three, then stir-fry the rest with chopped garlic and a dash of oyster sauce or soy sauce.

A 10-pound bag of potatoes is not a bargain no matter how low the price. But it’s a good idea to keep a few russets or small golden yams on hand. Rinse a potato, pierce it a few times with a knife, wrap it in a paper towel, place it on the bottom of the microwave oven and cook on high six minutes. If the potato is quite small, it may require less time. Squeeze it gently. If soft, it is done. Let it stand, wrapped in the towel, a few minutes before serving.

One-cup electric rice cookers are handy for single people who eat rice frequently. But it’s also easy to cook rice on top of the stove. Rinse one-half cup long grain rice and place it in a small, heavy saucepan. Add one cup of water. Cover, bring to a boil and simmer until the liquid is absorbed, about five minutes. Then place over very low heat to steam while assembling the remainder of the dinner. The rice will be done in about 20 minutes total.

Lettuce is problematic. A single person may not be able to consume a hefty head of romaine before it wilts. One alternative is the composed salad, a combination of less perishable ingredients such as an avocado wedge, a few carrot slices, one or two mushrooms, sliced, and a couple of cherry tomatoes.

Growing lettuce is another alternative. This may sound like a bother, but it is amazingly easy. Buy a 24-inch plastic window-box planter, fill it with potting soil and plant a row of seeds. They’ll sprout in a few days, need almost no care and will provide baby lettuce leaves for weeks.

Baking a cake that will stand for several days and slowly dry out is not practical for a single cook. Better alternatives are seasonal fruits, like fresh strawberries sliced and topped with plain yogurt and honey, or raspberries with creme fraiche and coarse sugar. One or two large pears, halved, peeled and poached in syrup, wine or fruit juice, can be stored in the refrigerator for several days.

When there’s a two-for-one sale on canned fruits, buy pineapple chunks. If the juice is unsweetened, drain it into a saucepan, add sugar to taste and simmer to make a syrup. Flavor the syrup with chopped candied ginger, shredded orange peel or liqueur, pour it over the pineapple and chill. For dessert, spoon a few chunks with syrup into a dish and add seedless grapes, berries or other fresh fruit. After dinner, brew a single cup of coffee or decaf in a small pump pot, or with a one-cup coffee filter.

ROSE’S NOODLE SOUP

Each week, Rose Dosti, who writes The Times Culinary SOS column, buys lots of vegetables to use in salads or Asian-style noodle and rice bowls. Fresh Japanese udon, available in some supermarkets, is the foundation for one such dish. Dosti steams an assortment of vegetables in the microwave, adds the noodles and their seasoning packet, an egg and perhaps some cooked meat. Ramen noodles can be treated the same way, “It’s healthy, nutritious food,” she says.

For an Italian-Japanese rice bowl, she cooks arborio rice with canned broth to make risotto. Then she adds julienned vegetables seasoned with soy sauce and mirin and steamed in the microwave.

3 broccoli florets

3 cauliflower florets

1 carrot, sliced

1 to 2 Brussels sprouts, halved

3 to 4 green beans, cut up, optional

2 cups water

1 (7-ounce) package fresh udon noodles, with seasoning packet

Few leaves spinach, nappa cabbage, bok choy, head cabbage or other green leaves, sliced

1 raw egg or 1 hard-boiled egg, sliced, or any leftover cooked meat, seafood or poultry pieces or slices

Chives or dried seaweed flakes or slices

Chile oil or other spicy seasoning, optional

* Microwave method, place broccoli and cauliflower florets, carrot, Brussels sprouts and green beans in large bowl. Add water. Cover and microwave on HIGH (100%) until vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove cover and add seasonings from noodle package and noodles, broken to easily incorporate into soup. Top with spinach. Drop raw egg into liquid or add hard-boiled egg. Cover and microwave on High about 4 minutes, until noodles are heated and raw egg is cooked. Garnish with chives or seaweed. Serve with chile oil, chile paste, hot pepper sauce or other seasonings

* Conventional cooking method, cook broccoli and cauliflower florets, carrot, Brussels sprouts and green beans in water in saucepan over medium heat 10 to 12 minutes, or until tender. Add noodles, seasonings from noodle package and spinach. Drop raw egg into liquid or add hard-boiled egg. Cover and simmer over medium heat until noodles and egg are cooked, about 5 minutes. Ladle into soup bowls. Add garnish.

Makes 1 serving.

Each serving contains about:

442 calories; 2,494 mg sodium; 218 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 77 grams carbohydrates; 26 grams protein; 5.52 grams fiber.

MARGE’S ONE-DISH CABBAGE DINNER

Adding lots of cheese gives this big bowlful of beef and cabbage a rich taste, reminiscent of French onion soup. It’s not French, though, but Italian, says contributor Marge Serritelli Powers, Times Food News Editor. A single hearty eater might polish off the whole thing in one sitting. If not, the dish reheats well.

Powers sometimes leaves out the meat, then serves the cabbage as a side dish with broiled pork chops. As an accompaniment, she might have a salad of beefsteak tomatoes with mozzarella cheese and fresh basil, drizzled with olive oil, lemon juice and a dash of Parmesan cheese.

Olive oil

1/2 pound top sirloin steak, cut into strips or cubes

2 to 3 medium onions, sliced

3 cloves garlic, sliced

1/2 to 1 cup Marsala wine, optional

Salt, pepper

1 small head cabbage, quartered

6 cups beef broth, preferably homemade

1 cup grated Parmesan or Pecorino-Romano cheese, or more to taste

Heat olive oil in skillet. Add meat and brown along with onions and garlic. Add wine as meat browns. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Separate cabbage leaves. Alternate layers of cabbage, meat mixture and cheese in large saucepan or Dutch oven. Pour broth over layers. Cover and simmer until cabbage is tender, about 30 minutes.

Note: Short ribs or beef stew meat can be used instead of steak.

Makes 1 to 2 servings.

Each of 2 servings contains about:

578 calories; 3,016 mg sodium; 81 mg cholesterol; 22 grams fat; 43 grams carbohydrates; 56 grams protein; 4.41 grams fiber.

ASIAN-STYLE BAKED CHICKEN LEGS

When one dish requires long baking, it makes sense to bake other dishes alongside. Golden yams, a corn or squash casserole and a fruit crisp would go well with this chicken.

2 1/2 tablespoons molasses

1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1/4 teaspoon peppercorns, crushed

1/4 teaspoon salt

6 chicken drumsticks

Combine molasses, soy sauce, lime juice, sugar, garlic, peppercorns and salt in bowl. Pour marinade over drumsticks and mix well.

Cover and refrigerate several hours to overnight. Line pan with foil. Place drumsticks on rack in pan. Bake at 350 degrees 1 hour. Baste half way through with any remaining marinade.

Makes 2 servings.

Each serving contains about:

362 calories; 1,201 mg sodium; 138 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 21 grams carbohydrates; 35 grams protein; 0.05 gram fiber.

DRESSED-UP SPINACH SALAD SPINACH SALAD

Vary the salad by adding other vegetables, such as sliced cucumber, Belgian endive or sliced sweet peppers. The recipe makes a single large salad or smaller servings for two. Substitute a bottled dressing for homemade, if more convenient.

SPINACH SALAD

1 1/2 cups loosely packed spinach

1/4 cup bean sprouts

2 tablespoons watercress leaves

2 mushrooms, sliced

Few thin slices red onion or sweet onion

Rinse spinach thoroughly, cut off coarse stems and tear into smaller pieces. Rinse bean sprouts and watercress. Combine with spinach in salad spinner and spin until dry, or pat dry gently with paper towels. Place in salad bowl. Add mushrooms and onion.

Chill. At serving time, toss with 3 to 4 tablespoons French Dressing.

FRENCH DRESSING

2 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

3/4 teaspoon dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon soy sauce

Dash any herb blend, curry powder or tarragon

1/2 cup canola oil or other oil

Combine vinegar, dry mustard, garlic powder, pepper, salt, soy sauce and herbs in jar with tight lid. Stir in oil. Let stand to blend flavors. Shake well before using. Store in refrigerator.

Makes about 2/3 cup.

Makes 1 large serving.

Each serving contains about:

1,034 calories; 825 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 110 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 1.32 grams fiber.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN A HURRY

4 Brussels sprouts

2 tablespoons water

1/2 teaspoon chicken stock base

1/4 teaspoon, scant, garlic powder

1/8 teaspoon lemon pepper

1 teaspoon butter

Any favorite herb blend, garlic salt or other seasoning can be added to the sprouts. The butter can be omitted as long as there is enough liquid to keep the sprouts from drying out as they cook.

Cut off ends of sprouts, then cut in half lengthwise. Remove any discolored leaves. Place cut side down in single layer in small, shallow microwave-safe dish. Add water, stock base, garlic powder, lemon pepper and butter. Cover with plastic wrap, venting at 1 side. Microwave on HIGH 4 minutes.

Let stand 3 minutes. Mix with any seasonings remaining in dish.

Makes 1 serving.

Each serving contains about:

73 calories; 518 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 1.16 grams fiber.

*

Oriental porcelain dragon bowl and accessories in Rose’s noodle soup photo from the Asian Collection, L.A. Mart.

Swid Powell graph bowl in Marge’s one-dish cabbage dish photo from, the Broadway. (BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX / INFOGRAPHIC)

Single Servings

* DON’T BAKE A CAKE: If I’d know I was the only one coming, I wouldn’t have baked a cake. Some things make good leftovers; others don’t. Think before you cook.

* GROW YOUR OWN SALAD: Make your south window your south 40. Singles can’t always eat a hefty head of romaine before it wilts. Lettuce keeps better growing in a window box than it does sitting in the refrigerator.

* KNOW YOUR BUTCHER: Pre-wrapped meat doesn’t give the single cook many options--what are you supposed to do with the four extra drumsticks, have chicken every night? A butcher cuts meat to order. He’ll even sell you a single chicken leg.

* COOK IT SIMPLE: Who are you going to get to clean up? Ridged range-top grills are ideal for single steaks, chops and sausages--and easier to clean than an oven broiler.