HISTORY : Town Seeks Claim to Footnote Status as First Pilgrim Stop

Mention the Pilgrims and you think of Plymouth Rock, right?

Wrong, say civic leaders in this resort community at the tip of Cape Cod.

Historians confirm that religious dissidents and their civilian co-passengers aboard the Mayflower first dropped anchor here on that frigid Saturday in November, 375 years ago. But finding little fresh water and even less protection from the elements, they soon headed for the more serene harbor they named Plymouth--which happened to come equipped with a large and destined-to-become-famous rock.

With no theme park or superstar natural landmark to distinguish it, Provincetown lost its claim to a spot in America’s historical memory. A 255-foot granite monument erected a century ago to commemorate Provincetown’s Pilgrim connection only added to the puzzlement. Even longtime residents, such as Candice Collins-Boden, would look at the huge structure and wonder, “What is that ?”

“When I found out about the Pilgrims, I was flabbergasted,” she said.

When Collins-Boden took over as executive director of Provincetown’s Chamber of Commerce, she vowed first to clear up the confusion, and then to capitalize on it.

“I decided here comes the 375th,” said Collins-Boden, using the local shorthand for the latest anniversary of the Pilgrims’ landing. “This gives us an opportunity to educate people and to take our rightful spot in history.”

It also served as the opening salvo in a friendly historical--and commercial--firestorm. Officials in Plymouth, 40 or so miles up the coast, concede that the Pilgrims did make a brief stopover in the area that is now Provincetown.

“But they didn’t stay,” said Wendy Longo, a member of the steering committee directing festivities for Plymouth’s 375th celebration. “And that’s what’s important.”

Not surprisingly, Provincetown boosters disagree. Fleeing religious persecution in England, the Pilgrims arrived on a Saturday, stayed aboard ship to pray on Sunday and mounted a land expedition on Monday. (Since this was also their traditional wash day, they christened their new homeland by doing the laundry.)

Their five-week sojourn in the waters off Provincetown failed to produce a permanent settlement. But they did draw up the New World’s first government document, the Mayflower Compact.

“It was the beginning of democracy in the New World,” Collins-Boden declared. “It is our humble beginning as a nation, and it started right here.”

Piffle, rejoined Longo of the Plymouth contingent.

“They were in the Atlantic Ocean,” she said.

Plymouth, for its part, is planning a grand, multicultural festival to mark the community’s anniversary. Tourism, a cash crop at least as important to Plymouth as the area’s rich cranberry bogs, has declined recently, prompting civic leaders to dream up a giant celebration featuring--among other events--the swearing-in of new citizens from a variety of cultural backgrounds. Native Americans, who have sometimes been uncomfortable with heroic presentations of the Pilgrims, will be prominently represented.

While historical obscurity may have been a problem for Provincetown, diversity has seldom been at issue. Recent generations have shortened its name to P’town, a summer destination renowned for its tolerance and beloved especially by vacationing gay men and lesbians. Earlier in the century, Provincetown boasted one of the country’s largest artists’ colonies.

With all due respect to the Pilgrims, Provincetown boasts even more ancient roots. An ancient Norse wall marks a visit by the Vikings, Collins-Boden said, and local lore holds that the legendary Viking warrior-explorer Erik the Red is buried in the wall.

Of course, that Norse wall is buried deep under a house on the west side of town, a casualty of history much like the Pilgrim association itself. Collins-Boden is hopeful that a summer-long First Landing celebration will help raise Provincetown’s historic profile, and with luck, lay the groundwork for funds to establish a permanent First Landing Park.