An Air of Good Italian Cooking

On parking in front of a Baskin Robbin’s on Sepulveda Boulevard recently, I noticed an alluring aroma wafting in the air--garlic sauteing in olive oil. Had a frustrated ice cream chef whipped up a batch of garlic gelato ? Then I saw the source, wedged between a cleaners and a liquor store: Italy’s Little Kitchen.

Long a fixture in Westchester, Italy’s Little Kitchen opened this Manhattan Beach branch two months ago and quickly attracted a local following. One reason for its popularity is a friendly staff. On my second visit I was surprised to hear both the waitress, Paula, and the manager, J’son Pransky, call me Michael. Pransky, a former art student, delights in drawing crayon artwork for children on the paper-topped tables.

Italy’s Little Kitchen is not just a sociable place, however. There are bottles of Pietra Pinta extra-virgin olive oil on every table, for dipping the fresh focaccia bread topped with olive oil, garlic and Parmesan cheese that automatically arrives when you sit down.

Bear in mind that the pizza is based on the same bread as the focaccia; combined with the complimentary focaccia that comes with your meal, it would make for a rather repetitive meal if you’re dining here (though not if you’re only ordering pizza to go). However, there are many pasta dishes to choose from. One of the most popular is the California pasta ($8.95), penne with artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes and goat cheese. The lasagna ($8.95) oozes mozzarella, ricotta and chunks of Italian sausage.

A special almost always offered is scampi Roma ($10.95), large shrimp sauteed in olive oil, garlic, fresh basil and white pepper and scattered over a mound of linguine.

Italy’s Little Kitchen is at 921 Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach. (310) 374-9905. Open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to midnight and Sunday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.