Whetting His Appetite

Randy Fortunato was so taken with the charm and the food of the Bottle Inn in Hermosa Beach that when the owner of the 21-year-old Italian ristorante decided to sell earlier this year, he bought the restaurant.

“The joke going around here was that I was spending so much money eating here, it would be cheaper to buy the place,” said the new owner.

However, Fortunato, who had no restaurant experience, made the sale contingent on one factor: That Silvio Petoletti would stay as manager. It was a wise move, for Petoletti has a lifetime of restaurant experience. Silvio’s father, Bruno, was co-owner of the famed La Rue on Sunset Boulevard and later the manager of the renowned Perino’s. Silvio did stay on, and is still there, as is longtime chef Maglio Munoz.

The Bottle Inn got its name from original owner Joe Cantisani’s vast collection of small liquor bottles (he once worked at Continental Airlines), but the title is now more associated with the wine list, which offers 250 varieties.

Part of the menu has been made lighter, in keeping with recent trends in dining. An example is the insalata della casa ($6.50), a mixture of radicchio, hearts of palm, artichokes, mushrooms and romaine lettuce. But many rich, continental dishes remain, including the mushroom caps ($7.50), filled with a mixture of ground veal and herbs set on a meat glaze sauce. Snails ( lumache ) are served swimming in garlic butter ($8).

A pasta favorite is pappardelle Genovese ($14), wide noodles with pine nuts, fresh basil, red rose potatoes, tomato, garlic and olive oil. Pollo Lombardo is a chicken breast stuffed with prosciutto and mozzarella, then topped with a porcini cream sauce.

My favorite time to visit the restaurant is at lunch, when the prices are lower. Afterward, I can walk 40 yards to the beach, throw down a towel, listen to the waves and pretend I’m relaxing after lunch on the Italian Riviera.

The Bottle Inn is at 26 22nd St., Hermosa Beach. (310) 376-9595. Open 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, 6 to 10:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 6 to 11:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.