Kumquat May

If you’ve never tasted a kumquat, give yourself a treat and buy a few. Look for a mound of tiny, bright, oval oranges. Kumquats aren’t cheap but they are bursting with flavor, and a few can go a long way in different dishes.

Kumquats are an ancient fruit that was cultivated by the Chinese centuries ago. Unlike other varieties of citrus, kumquats have a sweet, aromatic, edible rind and a tart pulp. They are eaten whole.

In some parts of the world, kumquats are highly regarded. The French believe kumquats and roast duck are a perfect combination. The Chinese often serve them mixed with lichees and loquats as the last dish at a banquet.

Homecooks can add their great flavor to cakes, cookies, roast chicken or duck, fruit compotes, or just good thick marmalade. I once chopped some kumquat rinds and added them to pancakes served with strawberries; it is worth doing again.

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This kumquat cake is a perfect basic white cake recipe for you to have ready on a moment’s notice. Be sure to make it with water. I’ve tested this recipe with a cup of milk instead, and it had a tougher, coarser crumb. At the same time, the water in the kumquat salad dressing is magic in giving a smoother, more delicate finish.

KUMQUAT CAKES

1/2 cup butter, at room temperature

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

1 cup cold water

2 1/2 cups flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 eggs

1/2 cup coarsely chopped seeded kumquats

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Cream butter in mixing bowl. Add granulated sugar, beating thoroughly. Add vanilla and continue beating. Add water all at once. Mix 1 minute. Mixture should look like bowl full of lumps.

Sift together flour, baking powder and salt onto wax paper. Slowly add dry ingredients to butter mixture while beating on low speed. When batter looks well mixed, add eggs 1 at time, beating after each addition.

Stir chopped kumquats into batter and stir briefly to distribute throughout batter. Spoon batter into 16 greased muffin cups to 3/4 full, or divide between 2 greased (8-inch) cake pans.

Bake at 350 degrees until toothpick inserted in center of cake comes out clean, about 15 to 18 minutes for cupcakes and about 20 minutes for layer cakes. Remove from oven. Cool in pans 10 minutes. Remove. Cool on racks. Sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Makes 16 servings. Each serving contains about:

139 calories; 225 mg sodium; 55 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.32 gram fiber.

BUTTER LETTUCE, AVOCADO AND KUMQUAT SALAD

SALAD

3 cups butter lettuce, rinsed, dried, cut into bite-size pieces

1 large or 2 small avocados, peeled, pitted and diced

8 kumquats, cut into fine slivers, seeded

Just before serving, combine lettuce, avocado and all but 2 tablespoons kumquats in salad bowl. Add salt and toss gently. Add salad dressing. Divide among 4 salad plates. Sprinkle remaining kumquats over each serving.

KUMQUAT DRESSING

3 kumquats, finely chopped

3 tablespoons cold water

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons sugar

KUMQUAT DRESSING

Combine kumquats, water, olive oil, salt and sugar in small bowl. Whisk until blended and creamy.

Makes 4 servings. Each serving contains about:

182 calories; 158 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 3.03 grams fiber.