The Naked Eggplant

Eggplant is one of the most valuable vegetables for summer cooking. It has a meaty, satisfying quality that can stand on its own. And it’s not necessary to use all the oil that’s typically associated with it. The eggplant recipes that follow use it for an Asian-inspired dip, with penne for a quick vegetarian pasta dish and in a light version of a favorite old-time casserole.

Although I used to cook eggplant with its peel intact, mainly for looks, I now find that it cooks more quickly and more predictably without it. Often, by the time the skin is cooked, the eggplant flesh has turned mushy.

If an eggplant is quite mature, it contains a large amount of bitter liquid. Salting the cut-up eggplant and letting it drain for about 30 minutes releases this liquid and the unpleasant taste. These recipes assume you’re using younger, early summer eggplants, so I skipped this step. The wisdom of this decision comes only in the eating.

SEARED EGGPLANT CAVIAR

Searing the eggplant in a nonstick skillet gives the eggplant a much better texture and taste than baking it until soft. I’ve tried this exact recipe both ways and there’s no question about it. Also the garlic and ginger are less harsh when cooked. Sesame won ton chips are great with the dip but other types of chips and crudites are good with it too.

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1 large eggplant, peeled, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 teaspoons minced ginger root

3 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar

3 tablespoons water

1/4 teaspoon salt

Red pepper flakes

3 tablespoons low-fat mayonnaise

1/4 teaspoon sugar

1/3 cup cilantro leaves

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* Combine eggplant, garlic, ginger, vinegar, water, salt and red pepper flakes to taste in 12-inch nonstick skillet. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat until eggplant is soft, about 13 minutes, stirring often. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.

* Puree eggplant mixture in food processor fitted with metal blade along with mayonnaise, sugar and cilantro leaves. Adjust seasonings to taste. Chill before using, at least 2 hours, up to 6 hours.

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Makes 8 to 12 servings.

Each of 8 servings contains about:

27 calories; 110 mg sodium; 4 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.15 gram fiber.

SPICY EGGPLANT WITH PENNE PASTA

This is a light, spicy pasta dish. It’s surprising how well tomato-vegetable juice works as a sauce for pasta; it’s much lighter and better flavored than tomato sauce.

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2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large red onion, chopped

1 sweet red pepper, cut into 1/3-inch dice

1 large eggplant, peeled, cut into 1-inch cubes

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups canned tomato-vegetable juice

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons tomato paste

Red pepper flakes

3/4 pound penne pasta, cooked according to package directions, drained, hot

1/3 cup grated imported Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup thin-sliced basil leaves

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* Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. When hot, add onion. Cook until tender, about 3 minutes, stirring often. Add red pepper, eggplant and salt. Cook until heated through, about 3 minutes.

* Add juice, vinegar, tomato paste and red pepper flakes. Cook, covered, until eggplant is just tender but still intact, about 12 minutes, stirring often. Remove from heat. Adjust seasonings to taste. May be made day ahead and refrigerated. Gently reheat before using, add water as needed for thick sauce.

* To serve, toss hot drained penne with eggplant mixture. Add cheese and slivered basil leaves. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

459 calories; 749 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 75 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 0.85 gram fiber.

SESAME WON TON CHIPS

24 won ton wrappers, cut in half diagonally

2 teaspoons sesame oil

Salt

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* Arrange wrappers in single layer on lightly oiled baking sheets. Use finger or very small, supple brush to coat surface of wrappers with sesame oil. Season to taste with salt.

* Bake at 375 degrees until deeply browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool completely. May be made several days ahead and stored at room temperature in airtight container.

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Makes 8 to 12 servings.

Each of 8 servings contains about:

61 calories; 93 mg sodium; 2 mg cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0 fiber.