A ‘Roccan Good Eggplant

In the heart of the Indian, Russian-Jewish and small Asian community on Chicago’s far North Side, tucked between window displays of saris and samovars, is Hashalom, a wonderful Israeli restaurant owned by a Moroccan and his Yugoslavian wife.

Jacques and Dani Zrihen marvel at their melting-pot neighborhood where cooks can buy cumin from an Indian merchant, cilantro from a Korean greengrocer and couscous from a Middle Eastern store. The couple’s Israeli cuisine incorporates Moroccan, Turkish and Yugoslavian influences.

One of Hashalom’s most popular dishes is Moroccan eggplant, a piquant combination of sauteed eggplant, onions, tomato puree, lemon juice and cilantro. According to Zrihen, many chefs have tried to copy his recipe, but none has succeeded. Perhaps no one else wants to devote a day to salting layers and layers of sliced eggplant or to turn the stove into a production line for cooking the vegetable.

Happily, a modified version is easy to make at home. Made with small eggplants that are less bitter than full-sized ones, the dish can be ready in an hour, although it will taste better if chilled before serving.

The eggplant can be served with pita bread as a light meal or can be an appetizer or salad, as it is on the Hashalom menu.

Although the chicken and couscous that follow aren’t from the restaurant, both dishes are excellent matches with the eggplant.

MOROCCAN EGGPLANT

2 small eggplants (total 1/2 pound), sliced vertically into 1/2-inch-thick slices

Salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup tomato puree

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 cup thin-sliced onion

Sprinkle eggplant slices generously with salt. Set aside 30 minutes. Brush off salt and juices. Heat oil in large skillet. Add eggplant in 1 layer and saute until golden, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Remove to plate lined with paper towels.

Combine tomato puree, lemon juice, cilantro, 1/4 teaspoon salt, pepper to taste, cumin, paprika and chili powder in bowl.

Place eggplant in bowl or deep plate. Top with onion slices. Spoon on tomato puree mixture. Gently mix by hand to break up eggplant. Adjust salt, pepper and chili powder to taste. Chill 1 hour.

Makes 2 servings.

MIDDLE-EASTERN SAFFRON CHICKEN

SAFFRON CHICKEN

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small onion, diced

1 clove garlic, minced

4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs

1/2 cup hot chicken broth

1/4 teaspoon crushed saffron threads

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon

Spanish paprika

Heat olive oil in large, heavy-bottomed skillet. Add onion and garlic and saute until tender, 5 minutes. Add chicken thighs and saute 5 minutes on each side.

Combine hot chicken broth and saffron in cup or small pan and stir to dissolve saffron. Pour liquid into skillet and stir up browned bits. Stir in cumin and paprika. Cover and simmer over low heat until chicken is done, about 15 minutes.

COUSCOUS

3/4 cup water

1/8 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup couscous

2 to 3 drops hot pepper sauce

2 tablespoons minced green onion (green part only)

Bring water, cumin and salt to boil in small pan. Add couscous and stir. Cover. Turn off heat and set aside 5 minutes or until couscous is tender and liquid is absorbed. Add hot pepper sauce. Use fork to break up couscous into individual grains.

To serve, spoon half the couscous onto each of 2 plates. Top each with 2 chicken thighs and half the skillet juices. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon green onion over each serving. Serve immediately.

Makes 2 servings.