Queens of the Kentucky Derby

One favorite springtime land and sea holiday, quintessentially American and not far from home, is to combine a visit to the Kentucky Derby with a cruise on a paddle wheel steamboat.

The Derby package reserves an inside or outside cabin aboard one of Delta Queen Steamboat Co.’s three paddle wheelers, the use of the vessel as a hotel during the Louisville stay and reserved seats for the Kentucky Derby May 4. All three of the company’s boats are offering Kentucky Derby theme cruises this spring--the new American Queen, the historic Delta Queen and the newly renovated Mississippi Queen.

In a December dry-docking, the 20-year-old Mississippi Queen paddle wheeler got rid of the last of its former plastic-and-chrome decor and was completely redecorated to match the Victorian bed-and-breakfast ambience of the American Queen.

With richly patterned carpets, floral tapestry upholstery, Victorian lamps with beaded fringe and lace curtains with swagged draperies at the windows, the steamboat has a much classier look than it did before. While most of the cabins and baths are still on the small side, they’re decorated with period wallpaper and vintage framed pictures on the walls, black-and-white tile and cotton eyelet shower curtains in the bathrooms.

On all three boats, the menus are the same, offering breakfasts that combine buffet choices and a choice of a la carte items such as the hearty plantation breakfast of eggs, country ham, biscuits, grits and gravy. Lunch can be taken in the dining room, at a buffet in the lounge or at the hot dog wagon on the sun deck atop the two larger boats. All meals include a generous sampling of Southern specialties from fried catfish to pecan pie, as well as other regional American and continental dishes.

The entertainment includes Dixieland jazz, piano bar sing-alongs, a strolling Mark Twain impersonator and a 1940s show with Andrews Sisters songs. Many of the activities on board are keyed to the history of the river and of steam boating, along with kite flying, mint julep parties and calliope playing.

Passengers can take a turn at the steam calliope on deck. The keyboard is set in a modest brass frame with a row of steam whistles above. It’s said you can hear it for 5 miles up and down the river.

A six-night Kentucky Derby cruise is scheduled for the 414-passenger Mississippi Queen, departing from St. Louis April 29, calling in Cape Girardeau, Mo., and Paducah and Henderson, Ky., then arriving in Louisville for a two-day stay with the boat as your hotel and a moonlight dinner cruise after the race. Seats for the race are in reserved infield bleachers. Cruise rates range from $870 to $3,620 per person, double occupancy.

The new American Queen will carry up to 436 passengers on a 10-night cruise that includes a day at the Derby with reserved infield bleacher seats for the race. The cruise follows a Heartland/Wilderness itinerary, sailing from St. Paul, Minn., on April 26, and calling in Dubuque, Iowa, and Hannibal and St. Louis, Mo. It then stops in Louisville for a day at the races. The cruise concludes with a visit to Madison, Ind., a 19th century town with 133 blocks listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The journey ends in Cincinnati May 6. Fares range from $2,490 to $5,890 per person, double occupancy.

The historic, 174-passenger Delta Queen will make a four-night Kentucky Derby sailing that leaves Cincinnati May 3. It cruises to Louisville for the race with special, hard-to-get reserved grandstand seats, then goes on to Madison before returning to Cincinnati May 7. Fares are $990 to $3,200 per person, double occupancy.

Air add-ons are also available.

A slightly different land/cruise Kentucky Derby package is being offered by Golden Bear Travel in Novato, Calif. It’s a three-night Louisville stay for the Kentucky Derby plus a five-night cruise on the Mississippi Queen. The itinerary begins May 2 with a stay in Louisville’s Executive West Hotel near the convention center and airport, and includes bleacher seats for a parade, a tour of the Kentucky Bluegrass Country with lunch, tickets to the Queen’s Ball with the Guy Lombardo Orchestra playing, Derby Day breakfast with a professional race handicapper, a shuttle to Churchill Downs and infield bleacher seats.

On May 5, participants board the Mississippi Queen for a cruise to Henderson and Paducah, Ky. and New Madrid, Mo., and disembark in Memphis on May 10. Prices begin at $2,960 for the first person in the cabin and 20% discount for the second cabin occupant. Air fare is not included.

First-time steamboat passengers accustomed to ocean-going cruise ships will note one difference immediately: the lack of any pitching or rolling motion; the boats move smoothly along the river.

Dress is slightly more casual than on cruise ships, with no formal attire necessary. And don’t expect to gamble on board. While gambling is legal in many states along the rivers now, the company prefers not to have casinos aboard its vessels.

To get a free color brochure of Delta Queen steamboat vacations, see a travel agent or call (800) 543-1949. To contact Golden Bear Travel, call (800) 551-1000.

Slater and Basch travel as guests of the cruise lines. Cruise Views appears the first and third week of every month.