Seals and Sails in the San Juans

We kept a careful eye out for their bubbles, a sign that they might be just about to surface. But we didn’t see Ruffles, Granny, Sparky, Rascal, Dylan or any member of their families.

They’re among the 90 huge black and white orca whales that live in Puget Sound--perhaps the most famous whales anywhere, thanks to the “Free Willy” movies filmed here on the San Juan Islands north of Seattle.

As my daughter, Reggie, and I glided our orange kayak close to shore at Orcas Island (at 56 square miles, the largest of the San Juan islands), we did see a harbor seal poke its head out of the water, a bald eagle high on a tree branch (more than 100 pairs nest here), sea lions grazing on the rocks and porpoises practicing their water acrobatics. Reggie lost count of all the starfish: orange morning sun stars, purple common stars, green serpent stars and red brittle stars.

The San Juans are full of hidden coves, quiet country roads ideal for biking and long stretches of beach with plenty of rocky tide pools to explore. Sports-minded travelers come here from around the world to fish for salmon and trout, camp, sail and enjoy the abundant wildlife--great blue heron, black-tailed deer, river otter, dolphins and, of course, the orcas. Best time to spot whales is May through July, although they are present through October. For summer visits, make hotel reservations as far in advance as possible. (Call the San Juan Island Visitors Information Service [360] 468-3663. For a free Washington State Lodging & Travel Guide call [800] 544-1800, ext. 221 or online https://www.tourism.wa.gov).

Families who live in the Northwest come here to get away from the city, to hike or bike or fish together. For a visiting family from another part of the country, the San Juan Islands offer the chance for outdoor adventures and sights different from those at home.

Just getting here was an adventure of sorts. We took the Washington State Ferry from the town of Anacortes, about 85 miles north of Seattle, to Orcas Island, sharing the hourlong trip with commuters and kayak-toting vacationers. Reggie immediately made some friends, playing cards the whole way while keeping an eye out for whales. She decided it would be a lot more fun to take a ferry to school--as some kids do here--than a bus.

Those planning to drive onto the ferry during the summer months need to arrive hours ahead and be prepared to wait. You may also plan your itinerary so you continue on the ferry to British Columbia. The San Juan Islands are only 90 miles from Vancouver. (For information call Washington State Ferries at [206] 464-6400.)

The ferries, though, serve only four of the islands: San Juan, Orcas, Lopez and Shaw. Fewer than 200 people live on Shaw Island, where the ferry dock is run by Franciscan nuns in traditional habits. Stop there to check out the Little Red Schoolhouse that all the island kids attend through eighth grade. Head to Lopez Island for biking.

While on Orcas Island, the largest in the group at 56 square miles, take time to climb to the top of Mt. Constitution in Moran State Park. It’s the highest point in the islands and the view’s great. See if the kids can spot deer swimming, which they do from island to island, according to Washington State tourism officials. If it’s warm, a swim at Cascade Lake could be a good break.

It’s possible to rent a boat or take a water taxi to some of the smaller islands to see exotic birds, such as whistling swans or puffins.

Later, we hopped another ferry to get to San Juan Island, home of Friday Harbor. With 1,500 people, it’s the island’s busiest town and tourist center and the place to sign up for a whale-watching cruise, a fishing trip or a tour.

Reggie decided she wanted to know more about the orcas. After a barbecued salmon sandwich, we headed over to the small Whale Museum. (Ask museum representatives how the kids can adopt an orca to support research and about wildlife watching boat trips; call [360] 378-4710.)

Besides listening to whale sounds on the phone and inspecting a giant whale skeleton, we learned that many Puget Sound orcas had been named by researchers able to identify each whale by the shape and size of its dorsal fin and by the black and white pattern beneath and behind the fin. In addition to a name, each orca is given a number and a letter, which corresponds to its family group or pod.

Reggie and I opted to watch for whales from the rocks at Limekiln Point State Park, halfway around the island. We waited with some other watchers until dusk, looking for those telltale bubbles on the surface of the water.

They never came. Reggie, meanwhile, couldn’t stop talking about the swimming deer.

Taking the Kids appears the first and third week of every month.

* BIKING: Circling the islands by cycle. L13