Train Smooths Out the Bumps

The Pendular Talgo, the low-slung Spanish train being tested by Amtrak for possible use in California, could be seen as a blend of the Orient Express and Metrolink: European rail technology mated to the economical American style of commuting.

Amtrak has been using the sleek Talgo on its Los Angeles to San Diego route since Monday, and this weekend it will make a special run from Los Angeles to Las Vegas, a possible forerunner to increasing Amtrak service between the two cities.

“This is not your grandmother’s train,” said Amtrak spokesman Dominick Albano.

Indeed, a Talgo is so quiet, so smooth, so devoid of clickety-clack that the first scene of “The Music Man” (where the traveling salesmen talk in the syncopated rhythm of the train thump-thumps) could never be filmed in a Talgo. The air-cushion brakes make for a gentle stop.

Used in Europe since 1980, the Talgo has a “passive tilt system” in which cars lean into curves slightly so passengers are spared the customary swaying and bouncing and the train need not slow down. Talgo is a company name, and Pendular comes from the suspension system being above the train’s center of gravity.

It is possible to walk from the bar car through six passenger cars holding an ice-filled cup of soda without spilling or even serious sloshing. Other amenities include video monitors for movies and table service in the dining car.

“The train was wonderful, even as good as German trains,” said Werner Baumgart, a German tourist, as he arrived at San Diego’s Santa Fe Station.

Now for the less-good news. Talgo is in the modern tradition of commuter trains like Metrolink in Los Angeles County and environs, and the Coaster in San Diego County.

The seats do not tilt and are not nearly as comfy as the regular Amtrak trains or your average movie theater. The cars have fluorescent lighting bright enough for an operating room. There is no traveling in contemplative darkness.

Don’t just take a reporter-rider’s opinion. Listen to Andrew Kerr, an emergency medical services dispatcher from San Diego.

Among train lovers, there are gradations of enthusiasm. There are fans, buffs and twinkies (their eyes twinkle when they see a train). Then there are “foamers,” said to foam at the mouth at the opportunity to ride a new train.

“I’m a foamer,” Kerr said proudly as he waited Tuesday night in San Diego for a trip to San Juan Capistrano. He was on his cellular phone arranging further trips with other foamers before the Talgo ends its trial run Friday.

“It’s good,” said Kerr, “but I wouldn’t want to go all the way from San Diego to Santa Barbara.” The bulky Kerr was squeezed into his seat because the armrests cannot be tilted up to provide more space.

The Talgo can cruise at 125 mph, but for safety reasons Amtrak puts a limit of 79 mph on its Los Angeles to San Diego route. A Danish train will be tested on the same route in a few months.

Amtrak would like to team up with state transportation agencies in California and Nevada for routes to Reno and Las Vegas, but such things are still in the talking stages.