Comfort With Some Oomph

Comfort food doesn’t have to be bland. Consider, for example, this Asian-inspired menu featuring Chinese barbecued pork loin, the slices arranged over a bed of simple Thai noodles. It’s a comfort dish with some oomph.

Although the pork loin is roasted just before serving, it requires minimal attention. The noodles are boiled in advance and then stir-fried, and the dish takes less than five minutes to put together. Accompany the pork and noodles with an Asian chopped vegetable salad with curry dressing.

Dessert should be simple. A refreshing lemon or orange sorbet with fresh raspberries would be perfect.

SIMPLE THAI NOODLES

3/4 pound Thai rice noodles

2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil

1/3 cup oyster sauce

1/3 cup Asian chile sauce

2 teaspoons minced ginger root

2 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 cup beef broth

1 1/2 teaspoons nam pla (Thai fish sauce)

1/8 teaspoon (or more) crushed red pepper flakes

1/2 pound fresh bean sprouts

1/3 cup chopped cilantro

This may look like an undue amount of noodles for six people, but I’ve found that nothing is left over. They are close to addictive. The noodles can be boiled in advance, but the final stir-frying must be done just before serving. Nam pla (or nuoc mam in Vietnamese) is available in Asian groceries and Asian sections of supermarkets.

Cook noodles in plenty of rapidly boiling, lightly salted water until tender-crisp, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain, toss with 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil, and set aside.

Combine oyster sauce, chile sauce, ginger root, sugar, beef broth, nam pla and red pepper flakes in small dish and set aside.

Just before serving, heat remaining sesame oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When very hot (beginning to smoke), swirl oil over bottom of skillet and add noodles. Cook until very hot, about 2 minutes, stirring often. Add bean sprouts. Cook until hot, about 1 minute, stirring often. Add oyster sauce mixture and quickly bring to boil. Remove from heat. Taste and adjust seasoning (especially ginger root and red pepper flakes). Toss with cilantro.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

310 calories; 1204 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 61 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 3.41 grams fiber.

CHINESE BARBECUED PORK LOIN

1 (2-pound) pork loin, trimmed

3/4 cup Chinese barbecue sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 1/2 tablespoons white vinegar

1 1/2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce (preferably tamari)

1 1/2 tablespoons dry sherry

1 1/2 tablespoons minced onion

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Salt, pepper

1/3 cup thinly sliced green onions

Simple Thai Noodles

Although the pork is served hot in this menu, it is also great at room temperature. Hot or not, serve the slices drizzled with a little barbecue sauce and a sprinkling of thinly sliced green onions. Roasting the pork on a wire rack (I used a cake rack) placed across the top of a shallow roasting pan half-filled with hot water keeps this lean meat moist and the sauce from burning.

Cut pork loin in half crosswise, then slice almost in half lengthwise, leaving 1/2 to 1 inch attached at bottom.

Put pork in large plastic food bag. Combine barbecue sauce, garlic, vinegar, soy sauce, sherry, onion and red pepper flakes in small bowl. Set aside 3 tablespoons of mixture and add pork to remaining. Coat pork and secure bag close to meat. Marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes, turning several times.

When ready to cook, half fill shallow roasting pan with hot water. Place cake rack on top of pan. Remove pork from marinade, reserving marinade. Season pork generously with salt and pepper. Arrange pork in single layer on rack.

Roast at 400 degrees 10 minutes. Turn and brush with marinade. Roast another 10 minutes. Turn and brush again. Roast until browned, about 10 minutes more.

To serve, cut across grain into 1/3-inch thick slices. Arrange slices over platter of noodles. Drizzle meat with 3 tablespoons reserved sauce. Garnish with sliced green onions. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

216 calories; 477 mg sodium; 68 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 25 grams protein; 0.27 gram fiber.

ASIAN CHOPPED VEGETABLE SALAD, CURRY DRESSING

SALAD

6 large radishes

2 carrots, cut in small pieces

1/2 jicama, cut in small pieces

1 head iceberg lettuce, cored, cut into 1/3-inch dice (about 4 1/2 cups)

1/2 red bell pepper, cut into 1/3-inch dice

1/4 cup chopped dry roasted peanuts

1 cup thinly sliced green onions (about 6 large)

1 cup frozen tiny peas, thawed

2 tablespoons minced cilantro

2 tablespoons minced mint

Coarsely chop radishes, carrots and jicama in food processor. Combine with lettuce, bell pepper, peanuts, onions, peas, cilantro and mint in large mixing bowl. Toss well to mix. Chill. Can be made to this point 1 day ahead and refrigerated, covered airtight.

CURRY DRESSING

1 tablespoon curry powder (preferably hot Madras-style)

1/4 cup white vinegar

1/4 cup oil

2 1/4 teaspoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

The food processor is useful in coarsely chopping the radishes, carrots and jicama in small batches with the on/off pulse to control the texture. The peanuts can also be chopped in the food processor, but the other vegetables are best chopped by hand. For a great Asian pasta salad, toss the salad with chilled Simple Thai Noodles.

Toast curry powder in small skillet over medium heat until hot and fragrant. Watch carefully to prevent burning. Combine with vinegar, oil, sugar, salt and pepper and mix well. Can be made a few days ahead and refrigerated, covered airtight. Let come to room temperature before using.

To serve, toss salad with dressing. Adjust seasoning. Serve chilled.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

178 calories; 120 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1.82 grams fiber.