South of the Border and Over the Top

For many years savvy wine consumers had a sure-fire way to deal with house guests who overstayed their welcome: They just started opening South American wine.

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Yes, indeed, there was nothing like a $5 Chilean Chardonnay or Argentine Cabernet to get ‘em scurrying like roaches. Before you could say, “Have another glass,” they’d be halfway to Saskatchewan.

Unfortunately, you no longer can rely on the South American strategy. When you open a bottle of Chilean or Argentine wine nowadays, you run the risk of being delighted.

In all fairness, South America has been exporting some sound bargain wines for decades. Back in the early 1970s, a certain college student in Washington learned that the one decent wine you could buy for under $2 at the local bodega was Chile’s Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon.

But through the 1980s, most of the wines sent to the United States by both countries were case studies in mediocrity. Even at $4 to $5 a bottle, most were not bargains.

Chile specialized in weedy, vegetal Cabernet Sauvignons. Argentina’s specialty was dried-out reds shipped years past their prime--if they ever had a prime. With the exception of Argentina’s exotic Torrontes, white varietals were generally grotesque.

But with the end of military rule and the transition to relatively stable democracy, investment and talent have poured into South America, especially into Chile.

Such internationally known wine figures as Michel Rolland of Bordeaux, Miguel Torres of Spain and Augustus Huneeus of Franciscan Vineyards have become involved. The Rothschild family of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild has put its money into Chile’s Los Vascos winery.

It’s taken a few years, but the investment in new oak barrels, better fermentation temperature controls and cleaner winemaking facilities is beginning to pay off. A recent tasting of South American wines also showed better concentration and fruit, a sign that wineries are cutting their notoriously high vineyard yields.

Some older brands, like Chile’s Cousino-Macul, have dramatically improved their wines. Some new brands, like Argentina’s Fabre-Montmayou and Chile’s Casa Lapostolle, are making terrific wines for modest prices.

With the introduction of Cousino-Macul’s $22 Finis Terrae, a Bordeaux-style blend, South America has its first truly great collectible red wine. The 1992 tastes like Chile’s answer to Joseph Phelps’ Insignia.

If this trend continues, it might not be long before South American wineries stop their recent practice of adopting American-sounding names (e.g., Walnut Crest). Eventually they won’t want to make consumers think they’re buying California wine.

The pseudo-California card has been played most brazenly by a Chilean winery called Stonelake. Take a look at its 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon and you’ll see a California-style designer label with the geographic designation Lontue, which hardly anyone knows is in Chile. Now, if you squint and turn the bottle just the right way, you can read the words “Product of Chile” in teeny-weeny tan type on a cream background. The irony is that Stonelake’s Cabernet is a terrific $10 wine that would, but for that sleazy ruse, enhance the image of all Chilean wines.

The intensely nationalistic Argentines seem less prone to this sort of nonsense, but their wine industry also has some peculiarities. One that consumers should beware of is the delusion that Argentine reds become wonderful with advanced age.

They don’t. Just try the 1982 Fazio-Joyaux Malbeck ($11). This grotesque, stewed-tasting wine is enough to make you cry for Argentina. Sadly, it’s not an isolated example.

South America continues to be primarily a red wine continent now, although there are encouraging signs that whites can flourish in both Chile and Argentina.

In Chile, Sauvignon Blanc is showing considerably more promise than Chardonnay. The 1995 Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc ($8) is a wonderful example. Meanwhile, the full-bodied rich 1993 Catena Chardonnay from the Agrelo Vineyard ($13) shows that a well-made Argentine Chardonnay can compete with the best from Napa Valley.

Both countries seem destined to make their mark on the red wine market with two grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It will take more than the lovely 1994 Fabre-Montmayou Malbec ($7) to persuade me that Argentina can build a reputation with this minor Bordeaux varietal.

Consumers should be able to find a broad selection of South American wines in better stores. Here are some worth looking for:

Chile:

* 1992 Cousino-Macul Merlot “Limited Release” ($11). This is an astonishingly fine wine with great concentration and wonderful flavors of black cherry, chocolate, black raspberry and herbs. An extraordinary value, outclassing 95% of California Merlots.

* 1992 Cousino-Macul Cabernet Sauvignon “Antiguas Reservas” ($9). Great intensity, purity and length from Chile’s leading winery. It beats most Californians in this price range.

* 1994 Stonelake Chardonnay ($10). If you like Kendall-Jackson’s fruity style, you’ll like Stonelake.

* 1994 Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon ($9). This big hearty red is a little rough-edged but has great black currant fruit and good aging potential.

* 1993 Cousino-Macul Cabernet Sauvignon ($6.49), 1992 Portal del Alto Cabernet Sauvignon “Gran Reserva” ($5.49), 1993 Caliterra Cabernet Sauvignon ($5). Classy medium-bodied wines at excellent prices.

* 1994 Undurraga Merlot ($5.49), 1994 Concha y Toro Merlot ($4.49), 1994 Saint Morillon Merlot ($4.19). Good hamburger Merlots at bargain prices.

One notable disappointment in the tasting was the performance of Los Vascos, which had been making great strides in recent years. The 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($12) fell far short of expectations. The 1993 regular Cabernet ($6.49) was better than the reserve but was outclassed by less expensive wines.

Argentina:

* 1989 Fabre-Montmayou Merlot ($10). Intense, concentrated blackberry flavors with herbs and chocolate. Fine aging potential.

* 1993 Catena Cabernet Sauvignon “Agrelo Vineyard” ($13). This concentrated, gripping red has some leathery notes reminiscent of a good Australian Cabernet.