With Potato Pancakes Speed Counts

When entertaining, I almost never cook anything at the last minute. This recipe for cheese-and-mustard potato pancakes is one exception.

The pancakes are made with grated potatoes, which are quickly sauteed, seasoned with dried dill, then spread with Dijon mustard and sprinkled with Gruyere cheese. Finally, another layer of grated potatoes is pressed over the pancakes so that the cheese becomes a filling. The pancakes cook to a rich golden brown on both sides in only a few minutes and can be kept warm for a short time in a preheated oven.

When selecting a dish that requires cooking just before serving, I try to make certain that the foods accompanying it are simple and, if possible, can be prepared ahead. To go with these pancakes, for example, roast leg of lamb or roast chicken would be a good choice. Or you could broil or grill lamb chops or steaks, a last-minute activity, but an uncomplicated one.

A mixed green salad with a red wine vinegar dressing and a loaf of crusty French bread could also be included in a spring menu featuring these delicious pancakes. A bowl of fresh fruit (strawberries, seedless grapes, orange segments and sliced bananas), garnished with mint sprigs, would make a fine dessert.

Rosbottom is a cooking school director and author of “First Impressions” (William Morrow).

GRUYERE CHEESE AND MUSTARD-SCENTED POTATO PANCAKES

1 1/2 pounds baking potatoes

3 tablespoons oil

Salt, pepper

1 teaspoon dried dill weed

4 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/4 cup shredded Gruyere cheese

Fresh dill sprigs for garnish, optional

Peel potatoes and grate either in food processor with grating disk or with hand grater. Wrap potatoes tightly in towels and wring out excess moisture over sink.

Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, measure 1/4 cup grated potatoes and place in pan, flattening potatoes with spatula into patty about 4 inches in diameter. Repeat to make 3 more pancakes.

Quickly salt and pepper pancakes to taste while cooking and sprinkle each with good dash of dried dill. Spread 1/2 teaspoon mustard over each pancake. Sprinkle 1 heaping teaspoon cheese over pancakes. Using 1/4 cup measure, top each pancake with more grated potatoes and press to flatten with spatula. Process of shaping pancakes, seasoning and topping them with more potatoes should take 3 to 4 minutes, just long enough for potatoes to be well browned on underside.

Lift pancakes and, if browned, turn to cook on other side. If not brown, cook 1 to 2 minutes longer and then turn. Cook until browned on remaining side, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer pancakes to baking sheet and place in preheated oven. Repeat to make 4 more pancakes. Pancakes can be held in warm oven 15 to 20 minutes.

To serve, arrange pancakes on warm serving plate and garnish with fresh dill sprigs.

Makes 8 pancakes.

Each serving contains about:

129 calories; 119 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.33 gram fiber.