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JiRaffe an Appealing Bistro That’s Off to Strong Start

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TIMES RESTAURANT CRITIC

Josiah Citrinand Raphael Lunettacombined their names and their talents to create a new Santa Monica restaurant called JiRaffe. Write that down and put it somewhere safe because, chances are, unless you can spell it, you’re not going to be able to tease the number out of an information operator.

The original chefs at Jackson’s, the two have worked under both Joachim Splichal and Wolfgang Puck. For the grade-school friends and former surfing buddies, opening a place in their hometown, just a few blocks from the beach, must be a dream come true. And what a terrific space they’ve found on the corner of 5th and Santa Monica.

With two stories of windows, a downstairs dining room washed in light, JiRaffe has an appealing city bistro feel: white tablecloths, dark library chairs, retro French flatware. The bread, thick slabs of buttery-crumbed brioche, is completely irresistible: Our table devoured two basketfuls. Truffled artichoke carpaccio is sublime, thin slices of artichoke heart scattered with chives and lightly perfumed with truffle oil. There’s a finely wrought salad of wild mushrooms tossed with wisps of frisee and homemade croutons. And with main courses like a juicy grilled pork chop with smoked bacon and an intensely delicious apple chutney or rare roast beef encrusted with cracked peppercorns and paired with a dreamy potato cake, JiRaffe is off to a strong start.

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* JiRaffe, 502 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 917-6671. Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and Tuesday through Sunday for dinner; Major credit cards accepted. Valet parking. Appetizers $6-$10, entrees $14-$18.

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