It’s Hip to Be Square
Will it be a snaffle or a ruffle this fall? It will be a snaffle, a horse’s bit that consists of two bars joined by a ring. You will see it on horses and more shoe styles than it is possible to track. To the horsy set, snaffle says tack; to the fashion set, it says Gucci.
For seven decades that piece of equestrian hardware has been a symbol of the house founded by Guccio Gucci in Florence, Italy, in 1920. Gucci worked his way up from a life of service to the super-rich to the saddlery trade, establishing a workshop where he sold lavishly priced leather gear.
Horsy trappings have traditionally been linked with the affluent class, which can maintain a stable in style. But when Gucci took tack from dressage to dressing, a fashion legend was born.
The Gucci horse bit first became an international status logo in the ‘50s, when it adorned loafers, bags and belts worn by old royals such as Queen Elizabeth II, new royals such as Grace Kelly and assorted tycoons, stars and pretenders. By the ‘70s, Gucci was spoken everywhere and understood by everyone, even the hired help.
In the ‘80s, status symbols fell from grace and the Gucci loafer, along with other luxury logo wear, was stepped down in class to nouveau-riche cliche level.
Now status symbols are returning to favor and the Gucci label is stronger than ever, even though the name no longer belongs to the family that lost it in a rocky history of vendettas, brawls, slayings and financial intrigue.
The Gucci bit motif, which over the years has been counterfeited, copied and modified, is being reinvented as trim in shoe collections from budget Payless styles to Gucci originals. It’s the metal of the moment.
Gucci, however, is not the only retro revival in shoe and accessory styling. Mod and disco clothing inspirations, with their narrower and leaner proportions, call for a balance in shoe design. Here are things to consider in shopping for a total look.
Silhouette
* The body of shoes now is heavier, whether they be pumps, loafers or boots. Seen in profile, heels are chunkier and square, with little or no taper to the tip.
* “Clunky” is the operative word because a stolid, set-back heel does create that sound effect. Walk on a hard surface; if you clunk, the shoe is now. If you teeter; it’s yesterday.
* Heels hovering around 2 inches seem to work best with that added weight. But even flats have a built-up and broader heel not unlike that of a man’s wingtips.
* Toes have gained weight, too, with a squarish cut giving a wider appearance and, perhaps, more wiggle room. Along with the snubby and girlish toe come strapping Mary Jane styles. Careful with these. They can look trendy with a short Carnaby Street mini, but they can easily tilt into Minnie Mouse mode. T-straps have the same currency, without the perils.
* Moccasin and loafer stitching is popular on heavy casuals as well as on more refined styles meant for wearing with longer skirts. Here again, the vamp is high for a substantial look.
* Synthetic composition soles with some thickness and lug treads are moving up to dress styles.
Texture
Along with high-gloss leather finishes, there are matte treatments of suede and embossed crocodile, lizard and pearlized color. A puzzling turn is a use of printed and solid pony skin in high-end designer lines, because the fuzzy finish adds about three shoe sizes to the look of any foot.
Color
There’s black always. Brown, however, is again being touted as the new black, and shades reminiscent of good old Kiwi shoe polish like cordovan and oxblood do look new. Purply eggplants and black cherry reds could be the extra dressing.
Boots
* Side-zipped, above-the-ankle Beatle boots are back in a big way. The Fab Four wore them with stovepipe mod pants and that’s the only way. Booties are a good investment for a major pants season, but never to be worn with a skirt.
* Mid-calf, shaped hippie boots are back too. Designers show a glimpse of textured stocking between boot top and hem. That’s a tricky proportion to tame, so a safer bet is pairing them with a near ankle-length narrow skirt.
Big handy hint: After a summer of slipping into mules and going nearly barefoot, trying on boots can be a squeeze. Even with help from a trained sales clerk that push past the instep can hurt. Carry a thin plastic grocery bag. Place it folded lengthwise along the inside back of the boot and hold on to the handle. Let your foot slide along the plastic until it is past the tight spot. Done.
So what if this raises eyebrows in the Manolo Blahnik crowd? Smart is always in style.
