The Scent of Memory

I have never forgotten a deeply flavored, steamy-hot bowl of garlic soup I had in Provence years ago. The texture was slightly creamy, smooth but not thick, and the flavor was all garlic, with a soft edge--not at all the weak, wimpy stuff that often passes for garlic soup.

Every fall around Thanksgiving time, I’ve tried to recreate that lovely French soup, but until last week my efforts have always been disappointing. Finally, here it is. If this isn’t identical to that soup of years ago, it’s close enough.

I used 20 cloves of garlic to achieve the flavor I wanted. I also added some potatoes, both for a creamy texture and because they have an affinity for garlic. A chunk of bread goes into the bottom of the bowl before you ladle in the soup, and if you need a garnish, sprinkle some toasted bread crumbs on top.

On the subject of recovering lost flavors, a few years ago I misplaced my favorite pecan pie recipe. I have used another very good recipe since then, but it just wasn’t my old favorite. Now it has reappeared, and just in time for holiday baking.

This recipe, too, is simple to make. Line your pie pans with pie dough and freeze until needed, so all you need to do during this busy holiday season is mix up the filling, fill the pans and bake.

Cunningham’s latest book is “Cooking With Children” (Alfred A. Knopf: 1995).

MY OLD PECAN PIE

3 eggs

2/3 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup melted butter

1 cup dark corn syrup

1 cup coarsely chopped pecans

1 (9-inch) prepared pie crust

Unsweetened whipped cream, optional

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Put eggs, sugar, salt, melted butter and syrup in mixing bowl. Vigorously beat together until well blended. Stir in pecans. Pour filling into pie crust and bake at 350 degrees until center is set, about 35 to 40 minutes (after 35 minutes, touch center. If it feels like edges, it is done).

Remove from oven and let cool. Serve with unsweetened whipped cream.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving, without whipped cream, contains about:

750 calories; 467 mg sodium; 134 mg cholesterol; 42 grams fat; 89 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.40 gram fiber.

GARLIC SOUP

6 cups chicken broth

3 tablespoons butter

20 cloves garlic, unpeeled

3 baking potatoes, peeled and diced

Salt

4 slices good home-style bread

1/2 cup toasted bread crumbs for garnish, optional

Put broth and butter in heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Coarsely chop garlic cloves with knife or in mini-processor. When broth boils, add chopped garlic, reduce heat to low and let soup simmer 45 minutes.

Set medium bowl in sink and pour soup through strainer into bowl, pressing garlic against strainer (some pulp will go through strainer). Return soup to pot, add potatoes and simmer until potatoes are soft, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat. Process in food processor if smoother texture is desired.

Put 1 slice bread in each bowl and ladle hot soup over. Sprinkle bread crumbs on top and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving, without bread crumbs, contains about:

289 calories; 1,462 mg sodium; 26 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 0.67 gram fiber.