Swordfish Can Change Your Mind

Fish was never part of my family’s menu when I was growing up, but gradually, over the years, I have changed my attitude about it.

As supermarkets in virtually every area of our country have come to offer a wide variety of fresh seafood, and as more and more cookbooks feature fish and enticing ways to serve it, I have become an enthusiast. I discovered how quickly--usually in a matter of minutes--seafood can be cooked and how delicious it is even when simply prepared. Now it is a frequent main course when I invite friends for a meal.

The following recipe for grilled swordfish with tomato-olive sauce is one that is especially good to serve when entertaining a small group. Swordfish steaks are marinated for an hour or longer in balsamic vinegar, light soy sauce and olive oil. The tomato sauce is made more interesting by the addition of slivered black olives. The sauce can be made a day ahead and needs only to be reheated. The swordfish cooks in less than 10 minutes and is served topped with the sauce and a garnish of chopped fresh basil and grated orange peel.

I have served quick-cooking couscous (simmered in chicken stock) and blanched haricots verts or tender green beans as side dishes. A good store-bought fruit sorbet would make a fine dessert to follow this special fish repast.

GRILLED SWORDFISH WITH TOMATO-OLIVE SAUCE

SAUCE

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

1/3 cup finely diced carrots

1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon dried basil

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more if needed

Dash sugar

1 (28-ounce) can Italian-style plum tomatoes, well drained and coarsely chopped

3/4 cup orange juice

1/3 cup dry white wine

14 Kalamata olives, pitted and cut into slivers

1 tablespoon butter

FISH

4 (6- to 7-ounce) swordfish steaks, 1 inch thick

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for grill pan

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 teaspoons chopped fresh basil

2 teaspoons grated orange peel

SAUCE

Heat olive oil in large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add onion and carrots and cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, 1 minute more. Add basil, cayenne, 1/2 teaspoon salt and sugar and stir well.

Add tomatoes, orange juice and wine. Bring to simmer, stirring often. Reduce heat and cook until sauce is thick and chunky, 12 to 15 minutes. Add olives and butter and stir until butter melts. Taste and season with more salt if needed. (Sauce can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cool, cover and refrigerate. Reheat, stirring, when needed.)

FISH

1 to 3 hours before you plan to cook fish, place swordfish in nonreactive shallow pan. Whisk together soy sauce, vinegar and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Pour over fish. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 1 hour or more, turning fish several times while marinating.

To cook fish, remove from marinade and season lightly with salt and pepper. Prepare stove-top grill pan by brushing generously with olive oil. Set over medium-high heat. When hot, add swordfish and cook, turning, until flesh is opaque, 4 to 5 minutes per side.

(Fish can also be cooked on outdoor grill. Oil rack and cook according to manufacturer’s instructions. You can also broil fish. Arrange rack 5 to 6 inches from heat source. Brush fish on both sides with olive oil. Place on rack in broiler pan and broil 4 to 5 minutes per side until done.)

Serve steaks with warm tomato sauce. Garnish each with chopped basil and grated orange peel.

4 servings. Each serving:

428 calories; 856 mg sodium; 61 mg cholesterol; 25 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 30 grams protein; 1.93 grams fiber.