Yujean Kang Colors Menu With New Flavors

Yujean Kang is turning up the heat in more ways than one at his Westside restaurant. From now through April 24, he’s cooking foods of the Sichuan province--not just three or four dishes, but an entire menu of 25. And it’s some of the best cooking he’s ever done.

These are gutsy versions of traditional dishes, like kung pao chicken with blackened chiles and loads of peanuts or ma-po tofu simmered with chile, spices and Sichuan peppercorns. There’s a remarkable dish of shredded dried beef stir-fried in very hot oil with threads of celery and carrot, which I loved.

Because Kang’s Sichuan menu is offered in addition to his regular one, he’s not so worried about whether anyone will order chilled tripe or cold beef tendon in smoldering chile sauce. But they do, actually.

This bold new menu is attracting a more adventurous crowd. And if this is a sample of what he can do when he feels he really has an audience, I can’t wait for the Beijing menu that follows this one. From there, it’s on to Shanghaiese or Chiu Chow cuisines.

BE THERE

Yujean Kang’s, 8826 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (310) 288-0806. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Major credit cards accepted. Valet parking. Sichuan appetizers $4-$8; entrees $12-$18.