Standout Italian

“But they’re all just cookie cutouts, aren’t they?” asked a friend I invited to Rialto Caffe.

Well, it does seem every other Valley restaurant is Italian, and it’s true many of them aren’t interesting. But my friend soon discovered what I already knew: Rialto Caffe is a sweetheart of a place.

This tiny spot, sandwiched into a row of storefronts along a busy stretch of Van Nuys Boulevard, belongs to Guatemalan-born Alberto Paredes and his Czech-born wife, Iveta. Paredes cooks in the display kitchen, under a green awning and a garish neon sign; Iveta takes care of the front of the house.

Most tables in this narrow, unpretentious room are on the main floor, but a little privacy is afforded by a tiny “mezzanine” that rises about three feet above the main room.

The first surprise comes when the waitress brings out a basket of caraway-flecked rolls, fresh from the oven. The rolls are hot and crusty, and they are the only Central European touch you will experience here--apart from Iveta’s accent. Then come complimentary bruschetta, the tiny toasts piled with ripe tomatoes mixed with basil, garlic and a dressing expertly laced with balsamic vinegar.

About this time you realize that you’ve made a clever discovery. Scampi de la casa are a delicious appetizer of broiled shrimp dressed with garlic, butter and herbs. Insalata di campo is mixed greens topped with goat cheese, whole walnuts and more of that good balsamic vinaigrette. And the pasta e fagioli is a terrific garlicky bean soup balanced by a few handfuls of cut-up fettuccine.

Rialto Caffe makes great pizzas, proving that good ingredients can more than compensate for the lack of a wood-burning oven. The medium-thick crusts are nicely browned on the bottom so they do not easily become soggy. Pizza Margherita is a winning combination of ripe tomatoes, whole milk mozzarella and basil. My favorite, pizza rustica, is topped with ricotta and thin strips of salami. Pizza della casa, another good choice, is made with prosciutto, goat cheese and a judicious amount of pungent sun-dried tomatoes.

The remainder of the menu is taken up by pasta, veal and chicken dishes. Among the 16 pastas, the one I’d come back for first is fettuccine alla Toscana: perfectly al dente noodles, porcini, chopped tomatoes and a touch of olive oil. The dish is a good lesson in understated appeal. (“Charlton Heston just ate this and loved it,” said the waitress.)

Cannellini di pollo are crepes filled with chicken stewed in a subtle, lighthearted white sauce. Rigatoni alla Bolognese combines the tubular pasta with a rich veal ragu and tiny meatballs--a good idea.

Meats are either grilled or tossed around in a saute pan. One evening there was a special of sauteed veal topped with eggplant, prosciutto and rather a lot of Fontina cheese (uncharacteristic excess for this restaurant). A better saute is veal ai porcini, where the veal is mildly sweetened by mushrooms, white wine and a touch of cream.

Desserts are minimal, too. Paredes makes some uninspiring strawberry crepes and a rather dry tiramisu that could use a bit more mascarpone. There are also tartuffi, the truffle-shaped individually sized ice cream bombes that many Italian restaurants buy commercially.

But Rialto Caffe’s flavorful, lightly foamed cappuccino earns it that second “f” that makes an Italian caffe not just any old cafe. In the end, you’ll remember a small restaurant with heart and a distinctive personality, one that belies a cookie-cutter appearance and a menu we’ve seen many times before.

BE THERE

Rialto Caffe, 4627 Van Nuys Blvd., Sherman Oaks. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. daily; dinner 5:30-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Thur.; 5:30-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; 5-10 p.m. Sun. Dinner for two, $24-$39. Suggested dishes: pasta e fagioli, $3.50; pizza rustica, $9.95; fettuccine alla Toscana, $9.95; pollo alla griglia, $10.95. Beer and wine only. Parking in rear. American Express, MasterCard and Visa accepted. (818) 981-9473.