In the Mood / Steak / Frites

Steak and French fries: Why we will always be indebted to the French.

* Lunaria: The lean and tasty onglet, “hanger” or “hanging tender” steak, is also called “the butcher’s cut” because there are only two on each steer and butchers are said to keep them for themselves. Chef Jean Pierre Bosc serves his 12- to 14-ounce onglet with a classic shallot sauce and excellent frites ($16.25). 10351 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, (310) 282-8870.

* Mimosa: Onglet can also be found a few miles to the east, at Jean Pierre Bosc and Silvio Di Mori’s cheerful and relaxed new bistro ($14.95). 8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 655-8895.

* La Cachette: Chef Francois Meteigner charcoal-grills a formidable 24-ounce Kansas-cut New York steak on the bone and tops it with Roquefort cheese and a green peppercorn sauce; with fries ($25). 10506 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, (310) 470-4992.

* Pastis: At lunch, this pleasant neighborhood bistro serves a grilled 8-ounce New York steak with parsley butter and pommes allumettes, which is really just a more elegant way of saying pommes frites ($12). 8114 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 655-8822.

* Xiomara/Oye!: Chef Patrick Healy offers a 7-ounce butterflied grilled New York steak frite at lunch ($15). The same cut can be had with a nuevo americano spin in the back room (Oye!) where it comes, deeply marinated with garlic and seared, with unusual dark golden yucca fries ($12). 69 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, (213) 796-2520.

* Ruth’s Chris Steak House: At this no-nonsense steakhouse, U.S. prime grade-A steaks (everything from an 8-ounce petite filet to a 40-ounce Porterhouse for two) come to the table sizzling in butter (you can actually specify just how much butter). Fries--julienne or steak--are ordered a la carte. (Steaks, $19-$28.95; fries $3.75). 224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 859-8744. Also 2961-A Michelson Drive, Irvine, (714) 252-8848.

* Book Soup Bistro: Andre Lechien, the new chef at this bookstore-adjacent bistro, offers a 9- to 10-ounce New York steak with a Roquefort sauce, skinny fries and a small mushroom casserole scented with truffle oil ($16.50). 8800 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 657-1072.