It’s the Crunch

Why is Chinese chicken salad so popular? We asked chefs about the first time they tried one and why they think it’s an enduring American favorite.

* Ken Frank, executive chef, Fenix at the Argyle: “My first one was at a Thai restaurant on Hollywood Boulevard in the late ‘70s. I loved it. Lots of crunch from the fried noodles and flavor from sweet-sour dressing. With the first bite, I thought, ‘Wow.’ ”

* Patrick Healy, chef, Xiomara and Oye! in Pasadena and consultant to the Buffalo Club in West Los Angeles: “I can’t remember when or where, but it was really light-tasting, with thinly cut vegetables and lots of chicken. It was crunchy.

“As a restaurateur, you can give the customer lots to eat because it’s not that expensive or labor-intensive; you can use a machine for chopping.”

* Jean Francois Meteigner, chef-owner of La Cachette in West Los Angeles: “My first was at Chin Chin about 15 years ago. What got me was that spicy combination of sour and sweet, the Asian flavor, and it was bulky and filling.

“I like the one at California Pizza Kitchen. The key is the proportion of ingredients. The bigger portions sold at some franchise restaurants are not appetizing. To me, bigger is not better.”

* Hans Rockenwagner, chef-owner of Rockenwagner’s in Santa Monica: “My first one was in 1983 in Chicago. It was a huge bowl of nappa cabbage, fried rice noodles, pieces of chicken tossed with a soy-ginger vinaigrette.

“Its enduring feature? Crunch. It’s a staple, like Caesar salad. But when you put it on the menu, you get judged by it. People have different ideas of what it should be.”

* Joachim Splichal, chef-owner of Patina Restaurant, Los Angeles; Cafe Pinot, downtown Los Angeles; Pinot Bistro, Studio City; and Pinot at the Chronicle, Pasadena: “The first time I had one was in 1982 at the Regency Club, where I was working. I’d just arrived in the States and was cooking more French food. The American chef made it and I liked it. But at the time I disagreed with my boss, who wanted it as an entree salad.

“What appeals is the sweet-sour taste. And the crunch of the noodles.”