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A Home for All That Zucchini

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Cunningham's latest book is "Cooking With Children" (Alfred A. Knopf, 1995)

I have to wonder about zucchini bread. Why do we perpetrate the myth that we will neatly dispose of our mountainous supply of zucchini in bread? The truth is that each loaf uses just 1 to 1 1/2 modest zucchini.

Still, zucchini bread is easy and quick to make--it takes about 10 minutes to prepare and about an hour to bake and cool--and it’s nice to have around to slice and enjoy with coffee or a cold drink. Since this quick bread is not iced or decorated (although it is sometimes glazed), it’s best served with something soft and spreadable like butter, whipped cream cheese or applesauce.

My criticism of some zucchini and other vegetable bread recipes is that, rather than using shortening or butter and creaming or melting the fat, oil is used to make preparation faster, resulting in an out-of-balance taste and a sodden, oily crust.

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A quick bread is not a yeasted bread and is leavened with baking powder or baking soda and an acid ingredient. It is much better to make a not-so-quick quick bread and cream or melt the fat. This recipe produces a bread with a tender crumb and balanced flavor.

If you are serious about depleting your stockpile of zucchini, make Loni Kuhn’s delicious zucchini relish. It will not only make a real dent in your zucchini supply, but it is splendid with everything from roast pork to hot dogs.

ZUCCHINI BREAD

3 cups flour, plus extra for preparing pans

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1 teaspoon nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon cloves

1/2 cup milk

2 eggs, slightly beaten

1/2 cup vegetable shortening, melted

1 cup sugar

2 cups shredded raw zucchini (about 3 zucchini)

2 cups chopped walnuts

Butter for greasing pan

Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves and set aside.

Place milk, eggs, shortening, sugar and zucchini in large mixing bowl. Add combined dry ingredients and beat until batter is just blended. Stir in walnuts.

Grease and flour two 8x4-inch loaf pans. Divide evenly between pans and bake at 350 degrees until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool in pans about 5 minutes. Turn onto rack and cool completely.

2 loaves or 32 servings. Each serving:

148 calories; 158 mg sodium; 14 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.42 gram fiber.

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LONI’S ZUCCHINI RELISH

10 cups ground zucchini

4 cups ground onions

2 cups ground celery

2 large red bell peppers, ground

5 tablespoons salt

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 1/2 cups vinegar

6 cups sugar

1 tablespoon nutmeg

1 tablespoon turmeric

1/2 tablespoon pepper

2 jalapen~o, seeded and ground

6 cloves garlic, ground

Combine zucchini, onions, celery and peppers in large mixing bowl. Cover with cold water and stir in salt. Let stand at room temperature overnight. Drain and rinse 4 times in cold water.

Dissolve cornstarch in 1/2 cup vinegar. Add dissolved cornstarch, remaining 2 cups vinegar, sugar, nutmeg, turmeric and pepper to vegetables and mix well.

Put mixture in large pot, cover partially and simmer 15 minutes.

Fill hot, sterilized jars with mixture to within 1/2 inch of top, being careful to keep jar rim clean. Cover each jar with flat part of lid and tighten ring around it.

Place jars in large pot boiling water and process 10 minutes. Remove jars from water and set on tea towels in cool place. After 30 minutes, press firmly on each lid. If lid remains down, seal is good. If center of lid springs back up, process in boiling water again.

8 pints. Each 1-tablespoon serving:

21 calories; 139 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.05 gram fiber.

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