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Preserving Made Absurdly Easy

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES; Casey is a chef, restaurant consultant and food writer in Seattle

A lot of people love homemade preserved foods but are intimidated by the traditional water-bath method. Or, like me, many cooks love to stockpile but are too crunched for time to sterilize jars and wait for each batch to be ready from the water bath.

At my house, preserves, jams, purees and fruit syrups are usually frozen instead. I also love to dry foods.

Last summer I started experimenting with flavored sugars, including one made with rose petals. We have many old rose varieties in our yard that we never spray. They aren’t the most perfect roses, but they do smell rich, sweet and perfume-like, and they taste luscious. I tried drying the petals in sugar and then blending the mixture; it worked like a charm. The sugar tastes wonderful sprinkled on fresh berries or, in the winter when you need a bit of summer flavor, used in sugar cookies that call for powdered sugar. Lavender petals work just as well.

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You can also use this method to combine fresh herbs and salt. Try making a basil-and-thyme salt or a hot-pepper-and-oregano salt for a spicy Mexican version.

Making fruit vinegars is also easy, and they last for a year refrigerated. Sweet ripe berries infused in white wine vinegar make an excellent vinaigrette. Just whisk together one part vinegar to three parts light olive oil, add a little finely chopped shallot and some salt and pepper; it’s the perfect foil for tender greens. Pair the salad with a jar of the just slightly spicy Sweet, Sour and Spicy Melon Balls with their hint of mint and basil, some thinly sliced prosciutto and a loaf of bread and, presto, you have a nice light supper for a hot day.

And, no, I didn’t forget about the jam. Spiced Nectarine Jam with a bit of brown sugar, cinnamon and allspice is great on morning toast or bagels. Or toss it with a few sliced fresh peaches, nectarines or cherries, add a dash of dark rum and serve over vanilla ice cream for a quick dessert.

Take a little time and preserve the flavors of summer. It’s not that hard, and you’ll be glad you did when the skies turn gray.

SPICED NECTARINE JAM

Use ripe, juicy nectarines. I leave the skins on, but you may peel them if you prefer. Do not double jam recipes.

5 cups granulated sugar

1/2 cup light brown sugar, packed

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon allspice

6 cups (about 3 pounds) chopped nectarines

1/2 cup lemon juice

1 (2-ounce) box pectin

1/2 teaspoon butter

Combine granulated sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon and allspice in large bowl.

Combine nectarines, lemon juice, pectin and butter in 6- to 8-quart heavy-bottomed stainless steel or enameled pot and stir thoroughly. Bring to full rolling boil over medium-high to high heat, stirring constantly. When at rolling boil, add sugar mixture and stir well. Return to full rolling boil and cook, stirring constantly, 6 minutes. Reduce heat if necessary to avoid boiling over, but be sure to maintain rolling boil.

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Remove from heat and quickly ladle jam into 7 (1/2-pint) jars with lids prepared according to manufacturer’s instructions. Wipe top edges and threads of jars with clean, damp cloth. Add lids and screw on rings. Turn upside down on dish towel. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate up to 3 months or freeze up to 1 year.

6 1/2 to 7 cups. Each 1-tablespoon serving:

44 calories; 1 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.03 gram fiber.

SWEET, SOUR AND SPICY MELON BALLS

3 cups cantaloupe balls

3 cups honeydew melon balls

3 large sprigs basil

2 tablespoons chopped mint

3/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 1/2 cups water

2 cups sugar

3/4 cup white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon kosher salt

Combine cantaloupe and honeydew melon balls in large bowl. Fill 3 (1-pint) wide-mouth jars with melon balls, tucking 1 basil sprig into each jar.

Combine mint, red pepper flakes, water, sugar, vinegar and salt in non-aluminum saucepan. Bring to boil over high heat and boil 2 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

When cool, pour syrup evenly into jars of melon balls, filling to top, making sure to cover fruit completely. Cover with lids. Refrigerate at least 24 hours before serving. (Note: Melon balls will keep refrigerated about 2 weeks.)

3 pints. Each 1/2-cup serving:

159 calories; 617 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 41 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.44 gram fiber.

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BERRY DELICIOUS VINEGAR

This recipe can be multiplied several times.

2 cups marion berries, blackberries, raspberries or combination

3 cups white wine vinegar or distilled vinegar

6 tablespoons sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

Place berries in stainless steel bowl or pan or oven-proof glass baking dish.

Combine vinegar, sugar and salt in stainless steel saucepan and bring to boil. Remove from heat and pour over berries.

Let cool. Cover and refrigerate at least 24 hours or up to 4 days. Strain through cheesecloth or coffee filter-lined strainer, pressing with ladle or wooden spoon to extract all juice. Discard solids.

Transfer to clean, clear wine or other decorative bottles. Label, date and store refrigerated up to 1 year.

3 cups. Each 2-tablespoon serving:

21 calories; 148 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.31 gram fiber.

FRAGRANT ROSE SUGAR

1 cup tightly packed, fragrant rose petals

1 1/2 cups sugar

Mix rose petals and sugar in glass or stainless steel bowl. Cover bowl halfway with plastic wrap. Let stand 2 days in dry place, stirring every day.

Toss, cover completely with plastic wrap and let stand 4 to 5 days longer or until petals and sugar are dry, stirring every day or so. (Note: If sugar sticks to bottom of bowl, gently tap bowl on counter to loosen.)

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Process mixture on high in blender in small batches until sugar is powdered and no bits or lumps remain. (Note: To get sugar going in blender, you may have to shake blender cup with lid on a couple of times.)

Place sugar in glass jar with tight-fitting lid and keep in cool dry place up to 9 months.

1 1/2 cups. Each 1-teaspoon serving:

16 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0 fiber.

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