At first glance, you might overlook “Emeril’s...

At first glance, you might overlook “Emeril’s Creole Christmas” (William Morrow, $23) as a holiday novelty. We did. Then we took a look at the recipes. Exotic Mushroom Bread Pudding. Andouille Cheese Bread. Sugarcane Baked Ham With Spiced Apples and Pears. Smothered Grits With Crawfish. Quail and Smoked Sausage Gumbo. We started to get very hungry. It may be slim, but Emeril Lagasse’s latest book, written with Marcelle Bienvenu, has more great-sounding recipes than many thicker books. We’re going to take a closer look.