Pork Chops

Where to find the satisfying virtues of the pork chop-- succulence and meatiness, crisped edges and the excellent way pork gets along with other foods:

* Border Grill: Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger grill a big double-

sized pork chop, then serve it with a tamarind-apple sauce alongside seared greens and poblano mashed potatoes. (Pork chop, $15.50.) Border Grill, 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-1655.

* Guelaguetza: Deliciously spiced pan-fried pork chops at these Oaxacan restaurants are served with rice, black beans and a salad. (Pork chops, $7.) Guelaguetza, 3337 1/2 W. 8th St., Los Angeles (213) 427-0601; 11127 Palms Blvd., Palms, (310) 837-8600.

* Jozu: Suzanne Tracht’s unforgettable char sui-style pork chop is marinated in soy and ginger and other spices for three to four days, then grilled and served with a black rice pancake, sauteed pea tendrils and a mustard sauce. (Pork chop, $21.) Jozu, 8360 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 655-5600.

* JiRaffe: The chefs, Josiah Citrin and Raphael Lunetta, take a double-cut pork chop and steep it for two days in a marinade of oil, herbs, honey, vanilla bean, orange and chile flakes. The chop is then pan-roasted and served with a cider sauce and wild rice, smoked bacon and an apple chutney with coriander seed and a strong hit of vanilla. (Pork chop, $17.) JiRaffe, 502 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica (310) 917-6671.

* Buffalo Club: Patrick Healy’s jumbo apple-cured pork chop is marinated in unfiltered apple juice and served with cheddar whipped Yukon potatoes, fried sage, collards and a Pennsylvania Dutch-stuffed apple. (Pork chops, $22.) Buffalo Club, 1520 Olympic Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 450-8600.

* The Shark Bar: This new, happening club with a soul food kitchen makes Mike’s pork chops, which come smothered with skillet gravy and onions and your choice of two side dishes, including green beans with spiced pecans, black-eyed peas with smoked turkey, smothered greens, red beans and rice, etc. (Pork chops, $14.95) The Shark Bar Restaurant, 826 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 652-1520.

* Las Palmas: A great little Cuban kitchen, Las Palmas fries thin pork chops with lots of lemon and garlic and serves them with black beans, rice and sweet fried plantains. (Pork chops, $8.85.) Las Palmas, 11671 Victory Blvd., North Hollywood, (818) 985-5955.

* Hollywood Hills Coffeeshop/Cafe: By night this coffee shop becomes a neighborhood cafe, where chef Bobby Nieves cooks pork loin chops with a pear and rye bread stuffing and a port wine glaze and serves them with mashed potatoes and dried fruit compote. (Pork chops, $12.97) Hollywood Hills Coffeeshop/Cafe, 6145 Franklin Ave., Hollywood, (213) 467-7678.