Water Walks

Why do waterfalls intrigue us?

Perhaps it’s the sensory stimulation we get when we’re near them--the soft spray on our faces, the roar of the cascades, sunlight sparkling off the water. Whatever the reason, a before- or after-holiday jaunt into nature to see them is in order.

Waterfall admirers can be grateful to Ann Marie Brown, whose guidebook “California Waterfalls” (1997 Foghorn Press, $17.95) details how to drive, bike and hike to 200 of the state’s waterfalls. In her 406-page book, the author reports she spent two years researching California’s waterfalls.

Winter and spring are the best seasons to seek out the splendors of falling water. Among waterfall fans, El Nin~o is a godsend, sending rains that have revived long-dry falls and swelled formerly dainty trickles into mountain majesties.

Some of my favorite falls are described below. The half-dozen waterfalls selected (three in the Santa Monica Mountains and three in the San Gabriel Mountains) are not necessarily the Southland’s mightiest cascades, but the trails to them offer excellent family excursions.

Los Pinetos Waterfall

Placerita Canyon County Park: Placerita Canyon has a gentleness that is rare in the steep, severely faulted San Gabriel Mountains. A superb nature center, plus a walk through the oak- and sycamore-shaded canyon, add up to a nice outing for the whole family.

Waterfall Trail (1.5 miles round trip with 300-foot elevation gain) ascends Los Pinetos Canyon’s west wall, then drops into the canyon for an up-close look at the cascade.

Big cone spruce and live oak, plus a few stray big leaf maples, shade the canyon walls. The waterfall, sometimes an impressive flow after a good rain, splashes into a grotto at trail’s end.

Access: From California 14 (Antelope Valley Freeway) in Newhall, exit on Placerita Canyon road and turn right (east) two miles to Placerita Canyon State Park. Continue past the turnoff to the park’s nature center to Walker Ranch Group Campground.

Eaton Canyon Falls

Eaton Canyon County Park: Eaton Canyon Nature Center, located at the base of Mt. Wilson, offers flora and fauna displays and a nature trail. A pleasant path (three miles round trip with 200-foot elevation gain) leads to Eaton Canyon Falls.

Eaton Canyon Trail leads through a wide wash along the east side of the canyon to a junction with the Mt. Wilson Toll Road. In fact, Eaton Canyon Trail was once a toll road itself, and fees were collected from 1890 to 1911. (The hiker seeking strenuous exercise can swing right on Mt. Wilson Road for a steep, eight-mile ascent of Mt. Wilson.) You’ll rock-hop across the creek several times as you walk to trail’s end at the falls.

In his 1877 book, “The Mountains of California,” the great naturalist John Muir raved about Eaton Canyon Falls: “It is a charming little thing, with a low, sweet voice, singing like a bird, as it pours from a notch in a short ledge, some 35 or 40 feet into a round mirror-pool.”

Access: From the Foothill Freeway (Interstate 210) in Pasadena, exit on Altadena Drive. Proceed north 1.75 miles to the signed entrance of Eaton Canyon Park. Turn right into the park and leave your car in the large lot near the Nature Center.

Sturtevant Falls

Chantry Flat, Big Santa Anita Canyon: Cascades, a waterfall and giant ferns are a few of the many highlights of historic Big Santa Anita Canyon. The bucolic canyon has been popular with Southern California hikers for more than 100 years.

The hike to Sturtevant Falls (3.5 miles round trip with 500-foot elevation gain) begins with a descent on a paved fire road, part of Gabrielino Trail, into Big Santa Anita Canyon. The trail passes some private cabins and reaches a three-way trail junction. To visit Sturtevant Falls, continue straight ahead. You’ll cross Big Santa Anita Creek, then recross it where the creek veers left. Pick your way along the boulder-strewn creek a final 100 yards to the falls. Sturtevant Falls drops in a silver stream 50 feet to a natural rock bowl.

Access: From the Foothill Freeway (Interstate 210) in Arcadia, exit on Santa Anita Avenue and drive six miles north to its end at Chantry Flat. The trail begins across the road from the parking area.

Temescal Canyon Falls

Topanga State Park: A “temescal” is what the native Chumash called their village sweat house. When the Chumash began to perspire, they scraped the sweat off with special sticks, then rushed out and leaped into a cold creek or showered under a waterfall.

The hike to Temescal Canyon Falls (2.4 miles round trip with 300-foot elevation gain) begins at a city park in Pacific Palisades, heads north through the Presbyterian Conference Grounds and soon reaches a junction of three trails. On the right is Temescal Canyon Trail, the route to the falls.

The path leads along a maple- and sycamore-shaded creek. You might hear the waterfall before you see it. The trail crosses over the falls, framed by huge volcanic rocks, via a footbridge.

Access: From Santa Monica, follow Coast Highway (California 1) to Temescal Canyon Road in Pacific Palisades. Turn right and drive a mile to Temescal Gateway Park. Continue past Sunset Boulevard up the park road for one-quarter-mile to the park information kiosk and entry station.

Santa Ynez Canyon Falls

Topanga State Park: Ferns, falls and dramatic sandstone cliffs are some of the highlights of a ramble through Santa Ynez Canyon. The canyon--and its seasonal waterfall--can be reached by way of a six-mile round-trip hike that begins in the main part of Topanga State Park, or by a much easier 2.5-mile round-trip walk from the Palisades Highlands community.

The easy path leads past a weirdly landscaped creek bed into a more natural environment of live oaks, sycamore and bay laurel.

Deeper into the canyon, you’ll pass fern-lined pools and handsome sandstone ledges before the trail ends at 15-foot Santa Ynez Canyon Falls. Beyond the waterfall are more cascades, but continuing farther is recommended only for experienced rock climbers (there is a rope to hold onto along one stretch of the rocks); most hikers make a U-turn here and head for home.

Access: (To Palisades Highlands trail head) From Sunset Boulevard in Pacific Palisades, a short distance inland from Pacific Coast Highway, turn north on Palisades Drive. As you enter the Palisades Highlands community, turn left on Verenda De La Montura. Park near the signed trail head.

Cold Creek Falls

Cold Creek Canyon Preserve: Cold Creek Canyon is one of the secret treasures of the Santa Monica Mountains. A year-round stream and a protected north-facing canyon nurture a rich variety of ferns and flowering plants in the 500-acre preserve. Winter rains swell the creek, creating a dozen small waterfalls.

The trail into the canyon (five miles round trip with 900-foot elevation gain) drops steeply into a marshy world of ferns and Humboldt lilies. Look for a hearty, fern-surrounded waterfall as well as some lovely smaller cascades.

Access: From the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) in Calabasas, exit on Las Virgenes Road. Head south to Mulholland Highway, turn east and continue to Stunt Road. Turn right and drive 3.38 miles (watch the road paddles for mileage indicators) to the signed Cold Creek Canyon Preserve entrance on your left. Park carefully in one of the turnouts near the entrance.

A special edition of McKinney’s book “Day Hiker’s Guide to Southern California” is available for $16.45, including tax, shipping and handling, by calling (800) 246-4042.

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GUIDEBOOK

Big Cat Territory in Rajasthan

Getting there: Twice a week, United flies from LAX to Delhi, India, with one stop but no change of planes. From Delhi to Jaipur, fly Jet Airways India. Or daily take American, British Airways, United or Virgin Atlantic nonstop to London, then change to British Airways for the London-Delhi segment of the trip. Advance-purchase, round-trip fares start at $2,360.

Ranthambore National Park: The best months to visit are November to March; reservations should be made 30 days in advance for December. Park is closed in July, August and September.

Each trip into the park in a canter is $3.50 per person; Jeep admission, $20 for two or $30 for the maximum five. Make reservations through Project Tiger Office, Sawai Madhopur, Rajasthan, 322001, India; telephone 011-91-7462-20223.

Tours: Rare Earth Explorations Inc., 10 Waterside Plaza, No. 4K, New York, NY 10010-2610; tel. (212) 686-7411, fax (212) 686-2366.

Mountain Travel-Sobek, 6420 Fairmount Ave., El Cerrito, CA 94530-3606; tel. (800) 227-2384.

Cox & Kings Travel, 511 Lexington Ave., Suite 335, New York, NY 10017; tel. (800) 999-1758.

Where to stay: Angkur Hotel, Ranthambore Road, Sawai Madhopur; tel. 011-91-7462-20792. Doubles, $17-$23.

Hotel Jhoomar Baori, Ranthambore Road, Sawai Madhopur; tel. 011-91-7462-20495. Doubles, $17-$32.

For more information: Government of India Tourist Office, 3550 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 204, Los Angeles, CA 90010; tel. (213) 380-8855, fax (213) 380-6111.

Tiger Information Center; tel. (800) 5TIGERS, Web site https://www.5tigers.org.