Lentils to the Rescue

Lentils--nutritious, flavorful and versatile--are not only a staple of the Mediterranean diet but one of the world’s most widely cultivated legumes (or pulses), with close to 8,000 varieties on record.

From the eastern Mediterranean, lentils spread to Western Europe and later reached the Americas by way of the Spanish conquistadors. Yet, it wasn’t until the early 1900s that the nutritious disc-shaped pulse first took root on North American soil, specifically in the Pacific Northwest.

Domestic consumption of lentils has increased from 26.5 million pounds in 1985 to more than 40 million pounds today. That amount accounts for 20% of U.S. production; the rest is exported. The expanding numbers offer great promise for growers like David Oien of Conrad, Mont. “Lentils are high in protein and dietary fiber and have no cholesterol,” he says. “They have become an important part of the diet of those who are cutting back on their meat.”

Lentils grow in pods, like peas, but there are only one or two seeds in each small pod. They require a moist soil and a relatively cool growing season. These requirements are fulfilled in an area called the Palouse, which stretches for 100 miles around Moscow, Idaho. Today, the Palouse produces most of the three main domestic crops grown in the United States: large, domestic brown, also known as Chilean-type, lentils; domestic Red Chiefs, which turn a light gold when cooked; and several kinds of green lentils, including the delicate (and expensive) French lentilles du Puy.

One of the most flavorful and unusual varieties to appear on the market in recent years is the Black Beluga. The small black lentil acquired its name because of its vague resemblance to Beluga caviar, according to grower Oien.

Lentils are always on the menu at Zov’s Bistro and Bakery in Tustin. Chef-owner Zov Karamardian, who is of Armenian descent, has been an aficionado of lentils since childhood.

“We couldn’t do without lentils. We accompany our sandwiches with a lentil salad,” she says, and even serves the traditional Middle Eastern M’jaddarah as a sandwich filling.

Unlike other legumes, lentils do not require soaking before being cooked. Simply wash them under running water and remove any impurities. Place the required quantity in a saucepan and add water. Cover and cook over medium heat until tender, 15 to 20 minutes for brown lentils and eight to 10 minutes for red lentils.

M’JADDARAH

This simple and delicious Middle Eastern specialty is one of the best sellers at Zov’s Bistro and Bakery. “The secret is to let the onions cook until they are totally caramelized,” says Zov Karamardian. This could take up to 30 to 35 minutes. To use as a sandwich filling, fill half a warm pita with m’jaddarah. Garnish with lettuce leaves and diced tomatoes. This recipe was adapted from Morse’s “365 Ways to Cook Vegetarian” (HarperCollins, 1994).

3/4 cup brown lentils, rinsed

Water

1/4 cup olive oil

3/4 cup jasmine rice, rinsed

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons butter

2 onions, thinly sliced

Cook lentils in 2 cups water in medium saucepan over medium heat until al dente, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain, reserving cooking liquid in 2-cup measuring cup. Add enough water to liquid to make 2 cups. Set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in another medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add rice and saute, stirring constantly, until golden. Add reserved liquid, salt and pepper to taste and partially cooked lentils. Cover and cook until rice is tender and all liquid absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. (Add 1 to 2 tablespoons water during cooking if mixture seems too dry.)

Heat butter and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in medium skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until deep, golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes.

To serve, mound lentil mixture in serving dish. Top with onions and drizzle with juices. Serve hot or cold.

4 servings. Each serving:

443 calories; 139 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 20 grams fat; 54 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 2.22 grams fiber.

ZOV’S LENTIL SALAD

This salad will keep 3 or 4 days in the refrigerator. Zov Karamardian says that, for best flavor, it should not be seasoned until just before serving.

2 stalks celery

1 cup lentils, rinsed

Salt

2 cups water

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 pound sliced mushrooms

1 green bell pepper, finely diced

1 small red onion, finely diced

1 green onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, finely diced

1/2 cup finely chopped parsley leaves, plus whole leaves for garnish

1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro leaves

Freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

Juice of 2 lemons or to taste

Blanch celery in rapidly boiling water. Drain and rinse with cold water to stop cooking. Finely dice.

Cook lentils in 2 cups lightly salted water in medium saucepan until al dente, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain and let cool. Transfer to medium bowl. (This can be done day before.)

Melt butter in medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Combine mushrooms, celery, bell pepper, red and green onions, carrot, parsley and cilantro with lentils. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Whisk together olive oil and lemon juice in small bowl. Stir into lentil mixture. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately.

8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings:

150 calories; 67 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.42 grams fiber.

LENTIL BURGERS WITH GINGER-CILANTRO RELISH

You can shape these patties like burgers and serve them on a roll with all the trimmings or fashion smaller versions and serve them as an accompaniment to another dish.

RELISH

3/4 cup cilantro leaves

2 to 3 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 slices ginger root

Sugar

BURGERS

1 cup brown lentils, rinsed and picked over

2 cups water

1 egg, lightly beaten

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1/8 teaspoon hot pepper sauce, optional

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 small onion, very finely diced

1 small carrot, finely grated

1 cup seasoned bread crumbs

1/4 cup olive oil

4 hamburger buns

Sliced tomatoes and lettuce leaves

RELISH

Process cilantro, water, lemon juice, ginger and sugar to taste in blender or food processor until fairly smooth. Transfer to small serving bowl.

BURGERS

Combine lentils with 2 cups water in medium saucepan and cook, covered, over medium heat until lentils are very tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain. Transfer to large bowl and add egg. Place mixture in blender or food processor and pulse until coarsely mashed. Return to bowl and add Worcestershire, hot pepper sauce, garlic, cumin, salt and pepper to taste, onion and carrot. Mix well and set aside.

Spread bread crumbs on large plate. Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Shape lentil mixture into 4 patties and coat on both sides with bread crumbs. Cook patties in oil, pressing down gently with spatula, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes on each side.

Set hot patties inside hamburger buns. Garnish with tomatoes and lettuce. Serve with cilantro-ginger relish on side.

4 servings. Each serving:

559 calories; 1,271 mg sodium; 53 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 76 grams carbohydrates; 24 grams protein; 3.06 grams fiber.