A Prime Number

Pasadena’s answer to Spago is the Parkway Grill, where the idea of California cuisine is stretched to the limit as waiters rattle off a list of specials with taste-defying, heretofore unthought-of combinations of ingredients.

Now owners Bob and Gregg Smith have brought a different concept to the City of Roses: the classic steakhouse. Arroyo Chop House debuts next door to the Parkway Grill. The swank new restaurant features a (street) view, cozy booths and an arts-and-crafts-inspired decor.

Some new steakhouses try to sneak by with only one cut of prime steak. This one touts prime beef exclusively, even for filet mignon, which is unusual. The well-marbled cuts are cooked in a broiler set at inferno temperature. Chef David Tellez came from a Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, in fact, and he’s got the drill down pat, though to my taste, his medium rare seems to be more on the medium than on the rare side.

The restaurant offers more than just steaks. There’s a good veal chop, rotisserie chicken and fresh fish, too. Plus a slew of sides, everything from fresh corn off the cob and thick beer-battered onion rings to garlic au gratin potatoes and sauteed wild and cultivated mushrooms. For dessert, souffles are making a comeback.

And for fumeurs in search of somewhere they can actually smoke their power cigars, instead of just taking them out and fondling them after dinner, Arroyo Chop House is proud to offer a cigar “patio.” Puff away, boys.

BE THERE

Arroyo Chop House, 536 S. Arroyo Parkway., Pasadena; (626) 57-PRIME. Open daily for dinner only. Valet parking. Appetizers and salads $6 to $9.50; steaks $22 to $29; sides $4 to $7.50.