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Life and Thyme

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Cunningham's latest book is "Cooking With Children" (Alfred A. Knopf, 1995)

Fresh herbs brighten otherwise drab dishes and are today’s substitute for the relishes and condiments of the past. But keeping herbs fresh and usable for more than a day or two after buying a bunch at the supermarket is a problem.

Herb books weren’t much help with this problem, so I began experimenting. I bought a bunch of basil and put it in a glass of water in the refrigerator. Within a day and a half, some of the leaves had turned black and were drooping.

I bought another bunch, put it in a glass with water and left it at room temperature on the counter. It not only stayed fresh, but it thrived and developed roots, so I planted it and it’s still growing--talk about getting your money’s worth.

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Since then, I have bought thyme, chervil, oregano, marjoram, parsley, cilantro and sage. I am testing each herb in water at room temperature, in the refrigerator, in a damp paper towel in the refrigerator and unwrapped in the crisper. I’ll let you know the results in a future column.

This chicken recipe is a good example of how much a fresh herb can improve a dish. The orzo with the fresh dill will make you sit up and take notice; the dill strikes just the right note with the bland pasta. It makes an excellent side dish with lamb.

CHICKEN WITH FRESH HERBS AND POTATOES

Chop the herbs and garlic by hand, not in a food processor because they will get soggy. If you don’t have a very large skillet that will easily hold the chicken and the potatoes, cook them in separate skillets, using 2 tablespoons oil in each skillet.

1 (3-pound) frying chicken, cut into serving pieces

3 large baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped rosemary

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

Spread chicken pieces and potatoes on wax paper and lightly season on all sides with salt and pepper to taste.

Heat olive oil in large skillet. Add chicken and potatoes and cook over medium heat until golden brown on all sides, moving and turning pieces frequently, 10 to 12 minutes. Cover, reduce heat to low and cook until juices run clear when chicken is pierced with knife and potatoes are soft, 10 to 15 minutes.

Put chicken and potatoes in large serving bowl. Sprinkle with parsley, rosemary and garlic and toss until evenly distributed. Serve hot.

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4 servings. Each serving:

562 calories; 202 mg sodium; 130 mg cholesterol; 40 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 34 grams protein; 0.46 gram fiber.

ORZO WITH FRESH DILL

1 cup orzo

Salt

1/3 cup chopped dill

2 tablespoons butter

Cook orzo in plenty of boiling salted water until tender, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain orzo and put in bowl. Add 2 tablespoons dill and butter and stir until butter has melted. Season with salt to taste. Sprinkle remaining dill evenly on each serving. Serve hot.

4 servings. Each serving:

151 calories; 133 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0 fiber.

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