The Fiesta Manifesto

I want it to be a fiesta, a long, drawn-out afternoon affair that goes on well into the evening.

Well, early evening. After all, this is Los Angeles, not southern Baja. In Baja, where I’ve been commuting for the last year to consult on menus, food and dining room service at Hotel Twin Dolphin in Cabo San Lucas, a fiesta is not an intimate gathering. People arrive, often from far away, and stay all day. And you feed them all day. Not a problem.

Silver Lake, where my companion and I live, is far only for the Westsiders who invariably get lost trying to find their way up our hill; it’s not far enough to keep guests captive and in need of food for hours.

Still, I think it’s high time to show my friends here in Los Angeles just what it is I’ve been doing in Baja. Which is not showing the cooks how to prepare California cuisine. Nor is my assignment to create some new fusion concept.

I have attempted to find and resurrect traditional southern Baja cuisine. It’s a cuisine based heavily on the abundance of fresh fish and seafood--chocolate clams, rock scallops, shrimp, sea urchins, skate, dorado, mahi-mahi, tuna, snapper, grouper, bass, yellow fin--as well as on the local livestock, mostly pork and goat.

There was a time when Cabo San Lucas was nothing but a fishing and agricultural community. Given the intrusion of an international cooking style brought to the area with the opening of so many new hotels, I believe it’s important to keep Baja’s local cooking traditions alive.

One of those traditions is cooking many foods in clay pots. I’ve been accumulating several of these pots and have waited impatiently for the hot summer weather to use them. I know these pots will be the envy of everyone who cooks. I’ve used them in the oven and on the stove top, but never in the way for which they were intended--cooking over a wood fire.

The challenge of cooking anything more complicated than a hamburger or hot dog over a wood flame--or of grilling over charcoal in a barbecue--is being able to control the heat. One of the amazing qualities of my Baja pottery is that the pots, once heated, remain at a fairly constant temperature. They actually amplify the heat of burning wood or charcoal and, once the contents of the pots are heated through, very little wood fuel is needed to keep the cooking going.

I invite guests to arrive at my Silver Lake fiesta at 4 o’clock, a purposely confusing hour, equidistant between traditional American feeding times. I figure that makes it harder for guests to run off too early: They’re unlikely to accept other dinner invitations if they know they’ll be eating in the late afternoon. The time is late enough for people to attend to their Saturday routines yet early enough so that those with kids will bring them.

At a fiesta, people eat in a completely non-structured way, which is wonderful for the hosts. People will eat all day, and as long as there’s something available, you’re off the hook. You don’t have to call guests to the table or structure courses.

Still, as host, I feel I need to organize my fiesta into three acts. Even though a fiesta should be unstructured, I think we could all use some help in learning to relax and enjoy ourselves.

Maybe it’s because I’m a chef that when I invite people for dinner or a lunch party, I think I have to give them an hour to arrive and drink, then sit them down at a table and give them 25 minutes for the first course, then 30 minutes for the second course before I can let them linger over cheese, dessert and coffee.

I can’t impose this schedule on my fiesta-goers--it wouldn’t be a true fiesta--but my three-act structure gives me some control over the uncontrollable. I don’t want the fiesta to seem like a buffet reception that people can slip out of undetected. It’s the job of the guest to stay, to drink, eat and have fun.

My plan is designed to help them do just that.

Act I

The Arrival (30 to 45 minutes)

This is important. As the host, I must set up my guest’s expectations for rest of the party. I play really upbeat music all over the house, especially outdoors. I think it should be just a little too loud, so that people have trouble hearing each other. Not everyone has a lot to say at first, and if they say it all over cocktails, they’ll drag down the energy later on.

I also make a point of introducing people to one another, even people who already know each other slightly. It makes them feel new and fresh, and they feel that you’ve invited them because you want to show them off to your other guests, they’re that special.

During this time, I serve beer, margaritas and agua fresca de jamaica, a cooler made from dried hibiscus flowers. Oh, and white wine for those people who still insist on thinking that it’s a sugar-free, nonalcoholic beverage. I put on music that has a Latin sound (five-pack CDs, random play, last for hours).

I keep my dogs locked up until most of the guests have arrived so they don’t bark or run away during the opening and closing of the door for arrivals. I ask the parents if it’s OK for their kids to go into the pool. Once people have settled in a bit and the kids are swimming, I let out the dogs. If your dogs swim, as mine do, or at least run around the pool barking playfully, they can help raise the energy level of the fiesta. For now, noise is good. Remember, you want to create an atmosphere of controlled bedlam.

Act II

Stand-Up Food (probably 45 minutes)

This part of the fiesta needs good timing so that the whole party stays vaguely in the same frame. Undoubtedly, your guests, like mine, have not arrived at the same time, or even at close intervals. (It’s 4 o’clock for a whole hour, isn’t it?)

I wait until three-quarters of the guests arrive before putting out the first food. If a few guests look like they’re going to faint from hunger, show them fabric samples that you’re considering for the sofa. I don’t serve chips and salsa and guacamole because I personally don’t eat them, but it’s not out of spirit to offer these.

Planning my menu vaguely according to Baja custom, I serve seafood and fish for this “first flight” of food. It’s always easier if the first food is not served hot. It gives the hosts time to play social director (see Act I).

Not willing to spend the party in the kitchen, I opt out of the traditional fish taco ritual and instead serve three chilled seafood cocktails: escabeche or pickled red snapper, a mango and grilled calamari cocktail and a Veracruz-style raw tuna cocktail. These are all popular dishes at the hotel.

I serve the escabeche and the calamari cocktail in glasses--Sherry, martini or wine glasses--holding small portions, about 2 ounces. When those disappear, I refill glasses.

The tuna is sliced as for sashimi in bite-size strips and arranged on a platter for people to take on small plates or just pick up with their fingers.

I want people to nibble, to feel that they can have a few little servings at their own pace, rather than eating their assigned portion of the first course. I am not convinced, though, that my guests know they should keep nibbling and drinking. They probably think the seafood is the hors d’oeuvre and they shouldn’t fill up. So, like my Jewish grandmothers, I prod people to eat more food, more than one small glass of seafood. I should have invited some grandmothers to help with this job.

Act III

Sit-Down Food (45 minutes)

You can turn down the music now. And if the dogs don’t take the cue that the mood has changed, they can retire to a room in the house.

I think it’s imperative that a host build anticipation for the food to come. As my guests stand around with drinks and seafood cocteles, they wander over to my Weber, where half a goat, cut up in large chunks, bones and all, simmers in a large ceramic cazuela. Birria, a whole goat buried in a roasting pit, is the most traditional fiesta food there is. Using the Weber and my new cazuela is my adaptation. I don’t do pits. My olla of frijoles rancheros, baked beans, cooks on a small pile of coals placed right on the ground nearby, a visual statement about the food to come that is hard to ignore. Many of the guests are fascinated that things are simmering in clay pots over very few coals.

The goat has been cooking since 9 in the morning, the beans since about 2 in the afternoon. Even though we are outdoors, the aromas are heady.

As the time nears for the main dishes, I sense a certain trepidation on the part of some about eating goat. Here’s another party axiom: Serving a food that makes people just a little uncomfortable creates an edginess that results in more interesting party conversation. I’ve noticed sometimes that people will talk about anything, give up indiscretions, even, to avoid tasting something new.

Well, my friends are really pretty good about stepping up to the plate, as it were, to try something new. The problem is that they all want to step up and sit down all at once for the hot food. This isn’t very fiesta-like, but I don’t know what can be done to prevent it. Maybe if I had invited more people, this wouldn’t have happened--or if I have fewer chairs than guests, but that’s risky.

Anyway, as I set out condiments for the Mexicana goat salsa and the traditional mixture of chopped onions, jalapenos and cilantro that one always serves with goat, people begin to wander over to the buffet table. Well, do what he may, a host can’t control everything. And it really is quite nice to sit down as a group to enjoy good food.

Act IV

Dessert (the rest of the party--as long as it lasts)

Good hosts shouldn’t try to kill their guests, so I prepare a simple dessert after such a rich meal. The traditional fiesta dessert is a pastel con tres leches, white cake soaked in sweetened milk, layered with cajeta and frosted with whipped cream. A little much, perhaps, given the hot weather and the more restrained tastes of most Angelenos.

Since berries are wonderful in the summer and as inexpensive as they ever get during the months of August and September, I serve strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries accompanied with crema mexicana, which is Mexican creme frai^che, and cajeta, a caramel sauce made with goat milk and the Mexican brown sugar called piloncillo.

Remember, simple should still be sweet and have a certain naughty richness that can present the opportunity for taking in obscene amounts of calories. I give my guests freedom of choice. They can be as naughty or not with the amount of crema and cajeta that goes with the berries.

Dessert and coffee are to linger over and, if you see that your guests are in no rush to depart and that the conversation is still animated, you can be sure that your party is a success. If all goes well, the kids are out of the pool and are watching the cartoon videos you rented.

I’ll tell you that, in spite of the fact that I was somewhat unsuccessful in breaking the usual pace of most parties in this country, my fiesta was a success. My guests stayed, they ate, they drank and, most important, they had fun.

Menu

Hotel Twin Dolphin Raw Tuna Veracruz Style

Hotel Twin Dolphin Mango and Grilled Calamari Cocktail

Pickled Mexican Snapper

Corn and Posole Salad

Cajeta With Berries

Frijoles Ranchero

Rice

Michael Roberts’ Birria

Hibiscus Iced Tea

HOTEL TWIN DOLPHIN RAW TUNA VERACRUZ STYLE (Atun Crudo a la Veracruzana)

This ceviche-style sashimi should be assembled a couple of hours before serving so the fish can marinate and “cook” slightly in the lime juice. The salty olives and capers juxtapose wonderfully with the tart lime juice. Tuna is easier to slice if it is partially frozen.

5 tablespoons olive oil

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons capers

1/4 cup pitted green Spanish olives, roughly chopped

1 poblano chile, roasted, peeled, seeded and chopped

1 tomato, seeded and chopped

3 tablespoons finely minced cilantro

3 tablespoons lime juice

3 tablespoons fish stock or bottled clam juice

1 pound tuna, cut in 1/4-inch-thick slices

Cook oil and garlic in small saucepan over medium heat, about 1 minute. Do not let garlic brown. Transfer to bowl. Add capers, olives, chile, tomato, cilantro, lime juice and fish stock and mix well.

Spoon half of salsa onto serving platter. Arrange tuna slices on salsa and spoon remaining salsa over top.

10 to 12 appetizer servings. Each of 12 servings:

101 calories; 67 mg sodium; 12 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.14 gram fiber.

HOTEL TWIN DOLPHIN MANGO AND GRILLED CALAMARI COCKTAIL (Coctel de Camaron con Mango)

Calamari is prized not for its flavor but for its texture and ability to soak up other flavors. Grill it quickly over a very hot fire until barely cooked to achieve a creamy texture. Let the calamari cool in a bowl so you don’t lose any of the juices. Show off the colors of this fresh-tasting coctel--yellow, black, green and red--by serving it in wide-rimmed glasses if possible. Or you might want to serve them in radicchio cups.

1 pound calamari, cleaned

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons lime juice

3 tablespoons fish broth or bottled clam juice

5 tablespoons finely minced red onion

1 mango, peeled, pitted and diced

1/2 cup drained and rinsed canned black beans

2 jalapenos, seeded and finely minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

12 sprigs cilantro

12 lime slices

Grill calamari bodies and tentacles over hot coals or on hot stovetop griddle until opaque, turning once, 2 to 3 minutes.

Transfer calamari to a mixing bowl and add oil, lime juice and clam juice. Let calamari cool to room temperature. Slice bodies into 3/8-inch rounds and return to bowl. Add onion, mango, beans, jalapenos and salt and mix well. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Divide among small wine glasses, being sure to distribute liquid evenly. Garnish with cilantro sprigs and lime slices.

10 to 12 appetizer servings. Each of 12 servings:

74 calories; 159 mg sodium; 65 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.21 gram fiber.

PICKLED MEXICAN SNAPPER (Escabeche de Huachinango)

At Hotel Twin Dolphin, we use huachinango, a red snapper local to the Sea of Cortez, but you may use any white-fleshed fish, such as whitefish, halibut, escolar, tilapia or Chilean sea bass. This should be made a day in advance to ensure that the fish is nicely pickled and that the flavors have a chance to fully develop.

SNAPPER

1 pound red snapper fillet, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

3/4 cup white wine

6 tablespoons finely minced onion

1 poblano chile, seeded and diced

2 bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon thyme

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

ASSEMBLY

6 tablespoons chopped tomato

2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro

1/4 cup croutons

10 to 12 slices lime

SNAPPER

Put fillet pieces in bowl. Bring oil, vinegar, wine, onion, chile, bay leaves, thyme, salt, pepper and coriander seeds to boil in large covered pot over high heat and cook 1 minute. Pour over fillets in bowl and let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

ASSEMBLY

Remove fish from sauce and divide pieces among 10 or 12 martini or wine glasses. Stir tomatoes and cilantro into sauce and spoon over fish. Garnish with croutons and slice of lime.

10 to 12 appetizer servings. Each of 12 servings:

93 calories; 131 mg sodium; 11 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.25 gram fiber.

CORN AND POZOLE SALAD (VEGETARIAN)

4 ears white corn

4 green onions

1 cup drained canned pozole (hominy)

1 1/2 cups arugula

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Salt, pepper

Remove corn kernels from cobs. Heat large heavy skillet over high heat. When hot, add corn kernels and cook, tossing, until corn develops some dark coloration, about 5 minutes. Remove from skillet immediately and place in salad bowl. Let cool.

Slice green onions into 1/4-inch rounds and add to corn. Add drained pozole and arugula. Add oil, vinegar and salt and pepper to taste and toss well. Serve immediately.

10 to 12 appetizer servings. Each of 12 servings:

67 calories; 58 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.29 gram fiber.

CAJETA

You’ll love the tang of goat milk in this caramel sauce. The Mexican sugar known as piloncillo comes in little cones that often weigh about 3 1/2 ounces each and have a distinctive flavor. Adding baking soda prevents the milk from curdling during the long cooking. Serve the cajeta over berries. You may also find cajeta sold in jars at most Latino markets.

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

2 tablespoons water

1 quart goat milk

7 ounces (2 cones) piloncillo or light brown sugar

Dissolve baking soda in water.

Bring goat milk and brown sugar to boil in heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat and stir until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and stir in baking soda mixture. When foam subsides, return to low heat and cook at low simmer, stirring occasionally, until mixture turns light caramel color and is consistency of heavy cream, about 5 hours. Stir into mixture any skin that forms on surface as it cooks.

Pour into bowl and let cool. Cajeta will become much thicker as it cools. If it becomes too thick to pour, add small amount heavy whipping cream or milk.

1 1/2 cups. Each 2-tablespoon serving without berries:

118 calories; 45 mg sodium; 9 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0 fiber.

FRIJOLES RANCHEROS

Don’t be surprised if this dish becomes a regular at your barbecues. It’s a bonanza of flavors. Pay careful attention to the beans after the first hour of cooking, stirring the pot often and adding just enough water to keep the beans submerged in liquid. If you miss the sweetness of American-style baked beans, add 1/4 cup of brown sugar and 1/4 cup molasses.

2 tablespoons lard

1 onion, chopped

1/2 pound chorizo, casing removed

2 dried pasilla chiles, stemmed and seeded

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can peeled tomatoes

2 cups dry pinto beans

1 tablespoon canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

2 epazote branches

1 teaspoon salt

Water

Melt lard in casserole over medium heat or place heavy cast-iron pot or Dutch oven on coals of barbecue (See Braising box this page). Add onion, chorizo and pasilla chiles and cook, stirring to break up chorizo, until onions are soft but not brown, 5 to 7 minutes.

Add tomatoes, beans, chipotle, epazote, salt and enough water to cover beans by 1/2 inch. Cook, stirring often and adding water as necessary to maintain water level, until beans are tender, about 2 1/2 hours.

10 to 12 servings. Each of 12 servings:

203 calories; 382 mg sodium; 14 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 23 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 2.19 grams fiber.

MICHAEL ROBERTS’ BIRRIA

In Mexico, a whole goat is roasted in a pit until tender, then the meat is pulled from the bone and simmered in sauce. I’ve simplified this method by simmering the goat for 7 hours over the coals of a fire. The result is falling-off-the-bone-tender meat infused with the dark flavors of dried chiles. If you’ve never tasted goat before, this is the perfect introduction to this full-flavored meat. The best way to eat the goat is wrapped in a tortilla with salsa, beans and rice. You can buy one can or jar of chipotle chiles in adobo sauce to get the sauce and the chiles you need for the dish. (Test Kitchen Note: This is a leading candidate for our Top 10 recipes for 1998.)

1 (24-ounce) can enchilada sauce

2 cups red wine

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1 (7-pound) goat leg, cut into 8 large pieces with bone

2 tablespoons lard

2 onions, chopped

4 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded

4 branches epazote

Water

8 cloves garlic

3 tablespoons prepared adobo sauce

4 to 5 whole chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

2 teaspoons salt

3 jalapenos, seeded and finely chopped

1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro leaves

Combine enchilada sauce, wine, cumin, cinnamon and cloves. Pour over goat, cover and marinate in refrigerator overnight.

Place lard, 1 onion, ancho chiles and epazote in heavy cast-iron pot or Dutch oven and place on coals of barbecue (See Braising box, H4) or bake at 375 degrees until onion is soft but not brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Add meat and marinade and enough water to barely cover meat. Add garlic, adobo, chipotle chiles and salt. Cook on just enough coals to maintain slow simmer or bake at 300 degrees, stirring occasionally, until meat is tender and falling off bones, 6 to 7 hours. Add water to pot as necessary to keep meat barely covered.

When ready to serve, combine jalapenos, remaining chopped onion and cilantro in small bowl and serve as accompaniment to goat. Serve with salsa and tortillas.

10 to 12 servings. Each of 12 servings without salsa and tortillas:

237 calories; 727 mg sodium; 87 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 31 grams protein; 0.13 gram fiber.

ICED HIBISCUS TEA (Agua Fresca de Jamaica)

1 cup dried hibiscus flowers

1 1/2 cups sugar

16 cups water

Bring hibiscus flowers, sugar and 8 cups water to boil in large pot over medium heat. Reduce heat to very low and simmer 20 minutes. Strain into large pitcher or other container. Add remaining water and chill. Discard flowers.

16 servings. Each serving:

72 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0 fiber.

COUNTDOWN

Day before:

*Prepare red snapper.

*Prepare marinade for goat. Pour over goat, cover and refrigerate.

*Make iced hibiscus tea.

*Freeze tuna if desired.

*Rent videos for kids if you don’t have any on hand.

*Or at least 7 hours before:

Cook cajeta. Do not refrigerate; it will not spoil overnight.

Day of party:

8 hours before: Light charcoal for grill.

7 hours, 45 minutes before: If tuna is in freezer, transfer it to refrigerator to thaw.

7 hours, 15 minutes before: When coals are hot, place corn in coals and cook, turning, until husks are blackened on all surfaces. Or remove kernels from cobs and cook in skillet.

7 hours, 5 minutes before: Place grate over coals and, when hot, grill calamari.

7 hours before: Remove grate, place Dutch oven over coals and cook onion, ancho chiles and epazote for goat. Or cook in oven at 375 degrees.

6 hours, 45 minutes before: Add goat and marinade to Dutch oven and simmer over coals or reduce heat in oven to 300 degrees.

6 1/2 hours before: Prepare calamari cocktail, cover and refrigerate.

6 hours, 15 minutes before: If corn was grilled, remove kernels from cobs. Drain pozole, combine with corn and refrigerate. Wash arugula and refrigerate.

6 hours or at least 2 1/2 hours before: Prepare chopped garnish for raw tuna, cover and refrigerate. Slice tuna, wrap tightly and refrigerate. Chill beer and wine.

4 hours before: Slice limes for garnish. Set up tables outside, including buffet table in the shade. Set out flatware, glasses and napkins.

3 1/2 hours before: Wash berries and refrigerate.

3 hours before: If cooking beans over coals, light coals in another grill.

2 1/2 hours before: Begin cooking beans over hot coals or on stove top.

2 hours 15 minutes before: Chop onions, cilantro and jalapenos to serve with goat and refrigerate. Set up CDs.

2 hours before: Arrange tuna and garnish on platter.

1 hour before: Cook rice. Arrange calamari cocktail and snapper in glasses for serving. Put salsa in serving bowl. Place cajeta and berries in serving bowls.

30 minutes before: Set up drinks and ice on buffet table.

15 minutes before: Lock up dogs if you have any. Put on music. Make yourself a drink and drink it.

Just before serving: Finish preparing corn and pozole salad. Make coffee.

INGREDIENTS

Staples:

Baking soda

Bay leaves

1 (15-ounce) can black beans

Dried pinto beans

Cinnamon

Ground cloves

Coriander seeds

Croutons

Ground cumin

Capers

Garlic

Lard

Limes

Yellow onions

Red onion

Green onions

Extra-virgin olive oil

Olive oil

Green Spanish olives

Freshly ground black pepper

Thyme

Tomatoes

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can peeled tomatoes

Salt

Sugar

White wine

Red wine vinegar

Red wine

Shopping List:

2 to 4 bunches arugula, depending on size

1 pound fresh calamari

4 dried ancho chiles

1 (7-ounce) can chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

2 dried pasilla chiles

2 poblano chiles

1/2 pound chorizo

4 ears white corn

2 bunches cilantro

1 (24-ounce) can enchilada sauce

6 epazote branches

1 (8-ounce) bottle clam juice

1 (7-pound) goat leg

1/4 pound dried hibiscus flowers

5 jalapenos

1 mango

1 quart goat milk

2 (3 1/2-ounce) piloncillo cones

1 (29-ounce) can hominy

1 pound red snapper

1 pound tuna

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Cook’s Tips

The ingredients for preparing these dishes are available in Latino sections of most supermarkets. They are also available at Latino markets, including the Rancho Market at North Alvarado Street and Sunset Boulevard in Echo Park and at Grand Central Market in downtown Los Angeles.