Fight Crusty Tiles With Acid Wash
QUESTION: Is there an effective way to remove hard-water deposits from the tiles in my swimming pool? I’ve tried scraping with a putty knife, scrubbing with pumice and cleaning with liquid pool cleansers. Even a pressure washer didn’t help. Any suggestions?
Brian Van Bower, president of Creative Aquatic Concepts in Miami, replies:
ANSWER: Acid washing is the easiest way to remove hard-water deposits or calcium buildup. But that removes only the symptom, not the cause, which usually is a chemical imbalance in the water.
The remedy begins with a water-sample analysis, which can be done with a kit (about $20 to $30). Or you can take a sample of the pool water to a pool-supply retailer. You often can get the water tested free, provided you buy chemicals to correct the problem at the same store.
If the water is high in calcium, use a calcium reducer, such as Cal-Sok ($35, Coating Systems, Box 50386, Phoenix, AZ 85076; [602] 777-0898). Drop the one-pound “sock” in the skimmer, and it will absorb calcium as the water flows through it.
It’s also possible that corrosive water is leaching salts and calcium from surrounding pool surfaces, creating scale. Again, do a water-sample analysis to find out for sure.
Once you’ve addressed the cause, attack the deposits with 20% baum muriatic acid (about $2 a gallon at pool-supply shops). Wear eye protection, rubber gloves and old clothing. And have a running water hose nearby to quickly rinse the solution off yourself or the patio. Make sure to follow the safety precautions and directions on the container.
The basic procedure: Dilute muriatic acid in a plastic pail or spray bottle by pouring one part acid into four parts water. (Never add the water to acid--full-strength acid could splash onto you.) Apply the solution to the deposits with a tile brush or spray bottle. Let it soak in for a few minutes, then scrub off the deposits with the brush. If the water is covering some of the deposits, lower the level to the edge of the tile, but not below it; the acid could harm the finish on the pool.
After the tiles are clean, use a transparent silicone coating to protect them from future calcium and scale buildup. Acid washing can lower the pH value and total alkalinity of the water, so you might have to add alkaline to the pool water.
Steps to Take When Whitewashing Floor
Q: I would like to whitewash the hardwood flooring in my bedroom. How should I do it?
Bill Price, a veteran floor refinisher who trains other professionals at Floormasters International in Renton, Wash., replies:
A: A whitewash floor is beautiful. But it’s also a lot like wearing a white suit every day: You’re in for plenty of extra care and cleaning.
The first step--and it’s a big one--is to rent a sander to remove all the old finish. If you’ve never refinished a floor, consider hiring a pro for this part.
Once the finish is off, lightly hand-sand the floor smooth. Don’t use anything finer than 100-grit sandpaper; finer sanding will hinder stain penetration.
Then buy a high-quality non-yellowing waterborne urethane finish and a compatible white stain, available from distributors of wood flooring.
Another option is bleaching, which produces the whitest floor and removes the pink hue from red oak. But don’t bleach white oak; it will look blotchy and uneven.
If you decide to bleach the floor, buy a two-part self-neutralizing wood bleach, not household bleach. Bleach is caustic, so wear rubber gloves and eye protection.
Brush on only one application, then let the floor dry 24 hours before applying the stain. Wipe it on with a soft cloth, let it soak in for about 10 minutes and wipe off any excess. Wait 48 to 72 hours, apply one coat of urethane and let it dry overnight.
Then lightly hand-sand the urethane and apply at least three more coats. Be sure to carefully clean and vacuum the floor between each coat--any dust or dirt left behind will appear in the top coat.
Yes, You Can Paint Aluminum Siding
Q: Our 20-year-old aluminum siding is dull and faded. Can we paint it?
Tom Philbin, a former painter and author of three books on painting, replies:
A: Yes, it is OK to paint aluminum siding. Most older siding is covered with a chalky residue--a natural result of oxidized paint. Start by cleaning it off so the new paint will stick. Use a power washer or a long-handled scrub brush and household detergent. Then rinse the siding thoroughly with clean water and let it dry.
Next, apply an acrylic latex primer tinted toward the finish color. After the primer dries, apply an acrylic latex top coat using a roller with a three-eighth inch thick nap. Then immediately brush out the paint--a technique known as back brushing--with a high-quality brush to create a smooth, even finish.
Do you have a remodeling or repair and maintenance question? Send it to Questions & Answers, Today’s Homeowner, 2 Park Ave., New York, NY 10016; fax: (212) 725-3281; e-mail: questions@todayshomeowner.com; Web: https://www.todayshomeowner.com.
