A Note on American Ricotta

Practically all of the ricotta made in this country is from cow’s milk, but good-quality product is available from small producers. Ricotta should be pure white, smooth, firm and fluffy. It is never yellowish or grainy and never watery.

Pressed ewe’s milk ricotta is imported into this country. It is sometimes called hard ricotta, ricotta salata or ricotta aura. There is also a Greek variety called myzithra. It is available in several textures. The softer ones are creamier and less salty. All are best grated on the coarsest side of a box grater.

Purchase ricotta salata in small quantities; it has a tendency to oxidize and turn brown. If the oxidation layer is thin, it may be pared away and the remainder of the cheese can be used.

One way to increase your odds of getting good ricotta is to read the labels. The best ricottas are set with rennet (sometimes labeled enzymes). Cheaper brands are made with acid--usually either lemon juice or vinegar.

The best quality ricotta available in the Los Angeles area is made by Caseificio Gioia in Pico Rivera. This is available at Alessio’s Italian Deli, 203 N. Larchmont Blvd. and La Brea Bakery, 624 S. La Brea Ave. in Los Angeles; Monte Carlo Deli, 3103 West Magnolia in Burbank; San Carlo Deli, 130178 Mason Ave. in Chatsworth, Broadway Deli, 1457 Third St. Promenade in Santa Monica and Italian Deli and Bakery, 5659 Kanaan Rd in Agoura Hills and 11134 Balboa Blvd. in Granada Hills. No Orange County locations sell the cheese yet.