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Sprucing Up Those Gray Areas

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We have the charcoal-colored clothes to prove we know that gray is the new black this season, but how do we dress up the look?

Two ways, experts say: Continue to use gray outfits as neutral backdrops that bring out the best in blue and red accessories, or wear accessories that enhance the gray.

Ron Cohan of Zia Jewelry in San Juan Capistrano is all for the second idea. He has handmade bracelets, pendants and earrings (from $100 to $300) made to go with gray.

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“There has never been any jewelry specifically designed for gray,” Cohan says. “In the past, people would put a color against the gray and it would highlight the color, but never enhance the gray. Jewelry designers Allan Barney and Ray Tracey have changed that.”

Barney, a Navajo from New Mexico, created his Silver Smoke collection that combines dolomite--a zebra-colored stone--with black jade.

Using a technique called inlay, the stones are individually cut and placed like a mosaic into a sterling setting. When the pattern is completed, the piece is polished from the top. This method makes the stones smooth, and there are no prongs to hide the stones or catch on clothes.

“Dolomite has gray, white and black in it, so it’s perfect to wear with grays,” says Cohan, who adds that Barney bought all the dolomite on the market “so other artists trying to copy him don’t have the stone.”

Zia also has a collection of sterling jewelry from Tracey, another Navajo designer who uses black jet, a stone found in the Acoma Pueblo in New Mexico. He combines it with white mother-of-pearl.

Other stores offering gray accessories include:

* The Gap: Traditional women’s peacoat made of ribbed wool with cuffed sleeves and anchor buttons ($118); fleece beanie cap ($19.50) with matching gloves ($14.50) and ultra-soft scarf ($28). Brea, Costa Mesa, Laguna Hills, Santa Ana.

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* Joan & David: Black cashmere pumps and sling-backs ($350-$400); metallic silver lizard pumps ($300); charcoal-colored velvet cutout wrap ($225); multistrand necklace of white and charcoal-colored pearls mixed with rhinestones ($350). Costa Mesa.

* Jil Sander: Long, fringed, gray cashmere knit scarf ($230); camel-colored shearling jacket ($3,010). Costa Mesa, Century City.

* Christian Dior: Gray tweed Lady Dior handbags ($900-$1,100); gray tweed shoes with mock lace-up and black leather piping ($360).

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