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Drago’s New Sicilian Spot Strives for Real Thing

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Drago, the Land Beyond Retro: Celestino Drago is opening a Sicilian restaurant in the old Jackson’s space on Beverly Boulevard in West Hollywood. He’s named it L’Arancino, after those compact deep-fried rice balls filled with meat or cheese eaten on the streets of Palermo; they’re called arancini (“oranges”) because they’re shaped like oranges and can even turn a little orange in frying.

Drago tells us this restaurant will feature “real Sicilian cuisine--not the cuisine that was introduced here 30 or 40 years ago.” He means his food will show the Arab, Greek and French influences that have shaped Sicilian food over the centuries. One example: pasta with sardines, which is dosed with saffron, raisins, pine nuts and wild fennel. (You can’t get less like marinara sauce than that.) Drago has been combing old Sicilian cookbooks for forgotten recipes that he can reinvent or reintroduce. There will be lots of seafood and vegetables involved, we’re told.

A lot of remodeling is going on. The entryway will be redone, marble floors are going in, more light is being let in the dining space, and the patio will be overhauled. Upshot: Don’t look for L’Arancino to open until some time next month.

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Suddenly, It’s Terrazza: Terrazza of Bel-Air, a new Italian restaurant on Beverly Glen Circle, has executed a super-fast opening in the Glen Center shopping plaza space that used to house another Italian cafe, Graziella. The latter closed in late December and Terrazza opened last Thursday, possibly a new restaurant-opening record. The place, named for its featured patio (because the inside dining room with fireplace seats so few), is owned by Joe Rosa. The chef, Ugo Cianci, is from Pescara in central Italy, and his cuisine is described as neither as heavy as northern Italian food nor as spicy as the southern region. Menu items include spaghetti alla carbonara, veal scaloppine in lemon sauce and gnocchi (“only when Ugo is in a good mood,” it says on the menu). Prices range from $8 to $12 for pastas, and from $11 to $18 for meat and seafood entrees. Terrazza is open for lunch and dinner.

* Terrazza, 2960 Beverly Glen Circle, Bel-Air; (310) 475-7404.

Super Bowl Deals: The Bistro Garden in Studio City is having a Super Bowl buffet that begins at 3:30 p.m. Large screen TVs are being brought in for the event, and there’s even a pregame cigar and wine-tasting session that begins at 2:30 p.m. The buffet includes bratwurst with sauerkraut, chicken burgers, tacos, enchiladas and Cobb and Caesar salads. There will be a drawing with a grand prize from Tiffany & Co. (perhaps in an attempt to lure more wives and girlfriends to the party). Cost is $45 per person.

* The Bistro Garden at Coldwater, 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 501-0202

. . . .If you’d rather stay home to watch the game, you can pick up a Caribbean picnic meal from Cha Cha Cha Encino. They have seven meals to choose from, ranging from sandwiches with salads, to poached salmon with pasta. Cost is $16 to $23 per meal. Each meal serves one person. Meal boxes must be ordered 24 hours in advance but can be picked up any time on Jan. 25.

* Cha Cha Cha Encino, 17499 Ventura Blvd., Encino; (818) 789-3600.

If Chocolate Be the Food of Love, Cook Away: Want to learn to whip up a chocolate treat for your loved one on Valentine’s Day? Zov’s Bistro in Tustin is featuring cookbook author Alice Medrich in their cooking class series. She’ll be demonstrating how to make Fallen Chocolate Souffle Cake, Chuck Williams’ 80th Birthday Cake, Faux Florentines, and Hand Dipped Chocolate Truffles. The classes take place inside the Bistro on Monday nights. The Valentine class takes place on Feb. 2 from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m. Cost is $65. Call (714) 838-8855, Ext. 3, for registration form.

* Zov’s Bistro, 17440 E. 17th St., Tustin; (714) 838-8855.

Sunday, Brunch Day: One more place in L.A. has committed to serving that most wonderful of morning meals, brunch: the amalgamation of all that’s good to eat when you wake up very late in the day. Sonora Cafe on La Brea serves Sunday brunch now every week from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

* Sonora Cafe, 180 S. La Brea Ave., L.A.; (213) 857-1800.

Lunch in Tahiti: Tahiti, the new restaurant from Tony DiLembo (of Indigo) on 3rd Street, is now open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. New lunch entrees include ahi tuna sandwich on nine-grain bread with green papaya and carrot salad; turkey burger with melted provolone, red onion and thyme relish; and fried catfish fillets. Prices run $7 to $16.

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* Tahiti, 7910 W. 3rd St., L.A.; (213) 651-1213.

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