Repairing a Peach

Every year it becomes more difficult to find a perfect ripe peach, nectarine, plum or apricot, and this year is no exception. Not so long ago, we Californians were the envy of the rest of the country for our access to and bounty of perfect tree-ripened fruits.

Apricots had a rich, smooth flavor; peaches were delicate and perfumed; the Santa Rosa plum was a juicy model of plum perfection; and the sweet peach-plum flavor of nectarines made one buy far more than could be eaten.

Each year I hold out hope that all those beautiful, bright summer fruits will be picked at their sweet and juicy prime. They look the same as they did in the old days, but they are impostors: no sugar, no juices, only a faint aroma and taste. Still I buy them, and over time I have devised ways of “doctoring” them to restore juiciness and flavor.

These desserts--Peaches with Apricot Sauce and Poached Nectarines With Raspberry Sauce--will fool you into believing that summer fruit is again wonderful.

Cunningham’s latest book is “Cooking With Children” (Alfred A. Knopf, 1995).

POACHED NECTARINES WITH RASPBERRY SAUCE (LOW-FAT COOKING)

1 cup water

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup sugar

6 nectarines, sliced

1 (6-ounce) carton raspberries

Heavy whipping cream, optional

Bring water, salt and sugar to boil in large skillet, stirring to dissolve salt and sugar. Add nectarines, reduce heat to low and cook, covered, 5 minutes. Pierce with fork to check tenderness. If still firm, cook 3 to 4 minutes more.

Remove nectarine slices with slotted spoon and put in bowl. Continue boiling liquid 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.

Put raspberries in wire strainer over small bowl. Mash berries with fork to press juice into bowl. Sauce is ready when only seeds are left in strainer.

Divide nectarines among 4 small glass bowls or dishes. Spoon raspberry sauce over and top with heavy cream if desired.

4 servings. Each serving without cream:

217 calories; 295 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 54 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 2.09 grams fiber.

PEACHES WITH APRICOT SAUCE (LOW-FAT COOKING)

1/2 cup water

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons lemon juice

4 apricots, peeled and quartered

4 peaches, peeled

Cook water, sugar, honey and lemon juice in small pan over medium heat, stirring often, until well blended, about 5 minutes.

Puree apricots in food processor while sauce is cooking. Stir in sugar-honey mixture and cook until well blended and hot, 2 to 3 minutes.

Slice peaches onto 4 dessert plates and spoon sauce over.

4 servings. Each serving:

112 calories; 1 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 29 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.77 gram fiber.