"I had a really impressive Riesling from the Mosel recently, a 1995 Heymann-Lowenstein Auslese Trocken. I don't remember which vineyard it was; who can read those German labels? It had the power and authority of a great Alsatian Riesling with the beautiful floral quality one finds in Mosel. It was memorable because it demonstrated that it is possible to make great dry wine from the Mosel if one is totally uncompromising. That to me is a really heroic accomplishment."