Traveler's Notes . . .

The landmark, 1905-vintage El Tovar Hotel at the Grand Canyon, closed since early January for renovation, has reopened after $1 million worth of work. Rooms start at $119.15, including taxes. Reservations via telephone (303) 29-PARKS or the Internet ( . . . Starting March 29, British Airways, joining a worldwide trend, will ban smoking on all flights. Only a few of its routes still allow smoking.

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