Go, Navy! And Wool, Cotton, Linen

Dear Fashion Police: I will be on a two-week European vacation in mid-August to France and Spain. Travel and hotels will be first class. I don’t own a suit, and I don’t have a clue how to prepare a wardrobe that would be right for the trip and allow me to avoid mention in your column.

--GOING IN STYLE

Dear Go: Thanks to some help from the Style division of Interpol, we were able to put together a man’s wardrobe that should keep you out of fashion jail.

First of all, forget the suit. The key item in your wardrobe will be a trusty navy jacket. Since the weather in Europe in August can be on the toasty side, we recommend a lightweight wool, which will resist wrinkles and hold up under the rigors of travel. If wool won’t do, you can go with cotton, linen or even silk, but be aware that these fabrics do wrinkle. You can have the jacket pressed at almost any hotel.

One jacket will probably get you through the entire trip. Since you’ll be dining at different restaurants, you can wear the jacket over and over again. Just don’t spill anything on it.

Bring some ties--actually, two should do it.

Even though Europe, like the U.S., is becoming more casual, jeans are still a non-non at nicer establishments. Instead, invest in a couple of pairs of well-made khakis, and if you’re going to hit some three-star Michelin restaurants, a nicer pair of pants in wool or linen.

Choose a few collared shirts that can be worn with or without a tie. Some top restaurants require a tie, and some don’t. If in doubt, tuck one in a pocket and you’ll be prepared for anything.

Tennis shoes--the official footwear of the American tourist--are fine for sightseeing during the day, but for night you’re going to need something a bit more formal, such as a brown loafer or a lace-up shoe (you can leave the wingtips at home).

Finally, learn how to pack your suitcase well (there are books on the subject). If you don’t already have a suiter, you may want to get one--jackets and such tend to wrinkle less.

Now, have a wonderful time and be sure to send us a postcard.

*

Dear Fashion Police: I have been invited to a cocktail party at the end of May in New York City. It’s in a fashionable hotel and begins at 6 p.m. Should I dress fancy or plain, in a light or dark color? Should I wear short or long, with a coat, jacket or shawl? I’m 5 feet, 3 inches tall and weigh 120 pounds. Please give us some hints as to what is right for older women--you surely can’t tell by the magazines.

--BOUND FOR

THE BIG APPLE

Dear Bound: Older, shmolder. It sounds like you have a great figure and are style-conscious, so let’s get rid of this notion of “what is right for older women,” shall we? If you like it, and it looks good on you, then it’s right. Inappropriate would be looking like Grandma Moses or a Spice Girl, but chances are you’re not going to either extreme.

For a 6 p.m. cocktail party you should wear short--meaning at the knee, just below or just above (you know what looks best with your legs). Long is for black-tie evening events.

And since it’s in a nice hotel, we’re thinking sophisticated--so no feather boas, frilly flouncies, or overdosing on sequins and beads. We love the look of a slightly fitted dress with a matching coat or jacket. It’s sleek, and you can glam it up with pearls or other jewelry. Plus, it looks great on petite shapes like yours.

If that doesn’t thrill you, think in terms of a chic dinner or cocktail dress in a soft, luxurious fabric like silk, or even a knit. It doesn’t have to be black (the official wardrobe color of New York City); you can choose navy, muted brights or a subtle print. We’d just stay away from big, bold florals.

As for a coat, that will depend on the dress and weather. It should be in keeping with the style of the dress; don’t ruin your look by wearing a shlumpy sweater with a stylish sheath. Remember, we have East Coast connections.

* When reporting or preventing a fashion crime, write to Fashion Police, Life & Style, Los Angeles Times, Times Mirror Square, Los Angeles, CA 90053, or fax to (213) 237-0732. Submissions cannot be returned. No telephone inquiries, please.