Preserving the Past in Ferndale

Ferndale is nothing if not quaint: a handsomely restored 1890s Victorian village, plus fine art galleries, museums, shops and B&Bs.; Ferndale’s 1850s-founded dairy industry produced a famed butter and the “butterfat palaces” of its successful citizens. Main Street merchants hand out brochures that detail a walking tour of Ferndale’s Victorian homes and buildings rendered in Eastlake, Queen Anne, Gothic Revival and variety of other styles.

Within the tiny city’s limits is wild Russ Park, a preserve that gives a glimpse into another kind of 19th century life--plant and wildlife. The park preserves the area’s natural history just as the Ferndale Museum at Third and Shaw streets displays the town and country memorabilia of its pioneers.

Russ Park is a preserve of tall trees: towering Sitka spruce, grand fir, redwood and western red cedar. Beneath the trees thrive the licorice, lady and leather ferns that gave Ferndale its name.

When pioneer Zipporah Patrick Russ donated the park to the city in 1920, she stipulated that the land be used for recreation and as a refuge and breeding place for birds. Birding is pretty good in Russ Park. More than 60 species have been identified.

A short hike in 105-acre Russ Park, the pride of Ferndale, is much wilder than you might expect.

Directions to trail head: From U.S. 101, about 15 miles south of Eureka, take the Ferndale exit and drive five miles west to the town. Follow Ferndale’s Main Street to its south end, turn left on Ocean Street and proceed to Russ Park and an unpaved parking area.

The hike: Lytel Ridge Trail ascends slopes shaded by maple and Sitka spruce, soon reaching a wooden trail map, and continuing amid thickets of salmonberries and thimbleberries.

Half-a-mile along, you’ll reach a trail junction. A short right forking connector leads to Zipporah’s Pond and a small Redwood Grove. Continue with the left fork now called Francis Creek Loop, which travels southeast, soon forking again. The left path ascends briefly to Bunker Hill Viewpoint, the park high point, for views of Eel River.

The main path tops the ridge, then descends north, switch-backing down into a ferny canyon, and completing the loop back toward Zipporah’s Pond. This time fork left and visit the tranquil pond. Explore William Crane Grove, a mixture of Sitka spruce, fir and redwoods on the pond’s north shore.

Descend from the pond, either on Eucalyptus Trail or Village Trail. Near the bottom of the hill, Bluff Street Trail returns you east to the trail head.

McKinney’s book “Day Hiker’s Guide to Southern California” is available through The Times for $16.45 (including tax, shipping and handling) by calling (800) 246-4042.

Lytel Ridge, Francis Creek, Village Trails

Where: Ferndale’s Russ Park.

Distance: 2-mile loop

Terrain: Sitka spruce forest.

Highlights: Wild side of quaint Ferndale

Degree of difficulty: Easy

For more information: Ferndale Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau; tel. (707) 786-4477