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Local Mountains Beckon Hikers

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TIMES STAFF WRITER

El Nino, the whipping boy for disasters large and small, bestowed at least one parting gift.

Thanks to the relentless rain, the Santa Ana Mountains, always a beauty spot in spring, are in their lush glory now, beckoning those who wish to recreate off the pavement.

For a memorable weekend getaway, away from the sound of cars, radios and other machinery, backpacking has no equal. Each month in the spring about 50 people take overnight backpacking trips in the Santa Anas, says Kari Iwai, wilderness manager for the Trabuco Ranger District.

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In one daylong deluge last winter, Santiago Peak received 11 inches of rain, a soaking that rivals Hawaiian summits. The 5,687-foot peak, the highest in the range, has registered 110 inches for the season. All that rain has made creeks sing and waterfalls shout.

Storm damage to trails occurred mostly in the Orange County portion of the district, officials say, leaving the San Mateo Canyon Wilderness, just over the Riverside County line, in reasonably good shape. This wilderness is on the southeastern side of California Wildland Firefighters Memorial Highway (state Highway 74, previously known as Ortega).

The 40,000-acre area--featuring about 50 miles of trails, coast live oak woodlands, bird life, 44 types of wildflowers and expansive vistas--is made to order for a wilderness adventure.

The Santa Anas have always been best enjoyed in the cooler months; the relentless summer sun, heat and dust can whither a hiker’s spirit.

“May is prime time for these areas,” says Bill Bourbeau of the Trabuco Ranger District. “San Mateo Creek will probably run all summer long, and the smaller tributary creeks will probably go much longer than normal. The growth of flowers is tremendous.”

Maps and overnight wilderness permits are available from ranger stations and, on weekends, at the El Cariso Visitor Information Center on Highway 74, next to the El Cariso Fire Station about 10 miles from the Orange County line.

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Fair warning: Since last June, the National Forest Service has put a hitch into everyone’s giddyap. Those who park cars to hike, backpack or even picnic anywhere in the Cleveland National Forest must buy an Adventure Pass.

The passes, to be displayed on windshields, are available at ranger stations, the visitors center and the Lookout restaurant on Highway 74, overlooking Lake Elsinore. Cost is $5 a day or $30 per year. Violators can expect a warning or a fine of up to $100, Bourbeau says.

Paperwork aside, the mountains beckon.

Beginning backpackers might try the Bear Canyon Loop Trail, an easy-to-moderate 6.7-mile hike. The trail head is at the candy store, on Highway 74 about five miles beyond the Orange County line and across the road from San Juan Loop trail head.

In addition to wildflowers, oaks and grasslands, the trail features interesting granite formations called soft sculptures. Perhaps best of all, much of the trail is a loop, meaning you needn’t backtrack the same route.

For more experienced packers, one of the best hikes is the San Mateo Canyon Trail, which puts them into the heart of the wilderness area. Featuring flowing streams, sycamore woodlands and many broad, open areas, the 7.5-mile trail is alive with spring flora.

According to Mary Thomas, district wildlife biologist, spring flowers include chocolate lilies; the elegant, single purple flower called clarkiapurpurea; pink-and-white blooming manzanita; and mimulus, called monkey flower. Her favorites: the deep-yellow calochortus and the showy pink pedicularis denfilora.

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The San Mateo trail can be reached in several ways, including Tenaja Trail via Bear Canyon Loop Trail. Bourbeau recommends making it a 12-mile shuttle trip, with one car parked at the candy store and the other at Tenaja Falls trail head.

About three miles from the Bear Canyon trail head, at a junction called Four Corners, a 1.5-mile trail heads to the top of Sitton Peak. Although it’s only about half the height of Santiago Peak, the summit offers views that can stretch to Santa Catalina Island and often San Clemente Island.

From Four Corners, continuing 2.7 miles along Verdugo Trail, you come to Oak Flats.

This, Iwai says, is one of the most sublime spots in the Santa Anas: coast live oaks and grasses dotting a level square-mile area. From there, another 3.2 miles along the Bluewater Trail links the hiker to San Mateo Canyon Trail.

Another San Mateo Creek entry point is from the Tenaja trail head, off Tenaja Road via the Murrieta area, or from South Main Divide Road, which begins off Highway 74. The divide road, which is paved for nine miles and then becomes rough dirt requiring four-wheel drive, is also the access to one of the wilderness’ gems: Tenaja Falls.

“Right now, Tenaja Falls is gorgeous and so is the trail getting there,” Iwai says. From the trail head, a half-hour hike takes you to the falls, which are about as full as they ever get. Boulders nearby are perfect for picnicking. Beware: Poison oak is common in the falls area.

Information: Visitors Center, (909) 678-3700; Trabuco Ranger District, (909) 736-1811.

(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX / INFOGRAPHIC)

Some Rules and Tips

* Campers and backpackers must register at ranger stations.

* Bring a map, compass, plenty of water, hat, sunscreen and insect repellent. A cellular phone is handy in emergencies.

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* Stream water, although cool and inviting, is not safe for drinking.

* Camp at least 100 feet from springs, meadows and trails.

* Open fires are not allowed. Use liquid-fuel stoves for cooking.

* Buy Adventure Pass; display it on windshield.

* Ticks, which love moisture, are out in abundance because of the heavy rains. Check your skin after you hike for these cunning parasites, some of which carry Lyme disease.

* Don’t feed or handle ground squirrels. Their fleas can carry bubonic plague.

* Poison oak is common in canyon areas and near streams. Learn to recognize the three-leafed plant.

* Rattlesnakes like to sun themselves on trails and boulders, so watch where you step.

Wild Trip

Just a short drive east on Highway 74 from San Juan Capistrano will put you in an outstanding local hiking and backpacking area. Awaiting are 50 miles of trails and expansive vistas.

Source: U.S. Forest Service

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